Just wanted to keep you informed of where we are and what we are doing. At this point we are not doing much at all as Chris contracted Dengue fever. We thought it was the regular flu as he did not have a high temperature, but his bones ached and he had a low fever. He started getting a rash and then we knew it was probably Dengue so we visited the Dr. and then the pharmacy for electrolits, medicine etc. We knew that it was pandemic here in the State of Sonora and Sinaloa, but since the temperatures are now cooler it should be on the decrease. Here in Alamos it seems that every family has been infected and some children have died from it. Chris' temperature was not high because he has always been taking calcium and zinc, but we made one mistake and that was he took Asprin for the fever and headache and that can cause bleeding. It should have only been tylenol. Learn something every day! There is a lot of information available about Dengue fever on the Internet. It is a malaria virus and it does take some time to get your energy back to normal.
We will be staying here in Alamos until we are certain everything is fine and we have the urge to move on. We are very comfortable here, have many friends, Doctors, and a small town where we can buy everything we need. The weather is great with clear, blue, sunny skies and temperatures between 26 and 30 C every day. The nights drop down to between 6 and 10'C.
Up to the time of Dengue we had been playing tennis 3 times a week with our friend, Jinny Combs, biking out to see the Thompsons, walking the arroyos birding. Now it is reading and taking life easy.
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
2003 - Alamos, Mexico
Stolen Private Plane buzzes the old colonial town of Alamos in Sonora, Mexico
November 22, 2003
A loud roar of increasing force wakes us from sleep at 5 am. A plane taking off from the runway 50 meters from our friends, Joanie and Doug’s. We are presently staying in a shady spot behind their home. What a time to take off when it is still dark outside!
Apparently 23 private planes of all sizes and shapes are parked by the runway about 1 ½ km down. The pilots and passengers are here on the invite of the owners of the luxury hotel “Los Santos” for a special event.
In the evening while sitting on Plaza Alamada having beer and tacos at Fortino’s Beef Taco stand our friend, Jim Toews, tells us: “Have you heard the latest? A plane was stolen this morning after the airport manager was tied up at gunpoint. The thieves will use this perfectly suited plane for a drug run to the US about 500 km away and then wreck the plane somewhere. Before taking off towards the East over the mountains the thieves buzzed the town and the hotel 3 times for a final Adios.” There is always something going in this historical colonial town of about 10,000.
Horses in the street, weddings, 15th birthday parties (coming-out parties) at the church and other sites, bands and speakers going well into the night. Today is Sunday and we will go and eat a fish taco at the Sunday Market in the arroyo. We will be staying at Rancho Acosta Trailer Park for about 2 weeks.
We arrived in Alamos 3 days ago from “Old” Kino Bay on the Sea of Cortez. Our campsite was 15 m from the beach with a clear view of the bay, which is framed by Rocky Mountains. Right in the middle of the Bay is a peaked island about 200 meters high looking somewhat like the upper tip of an alpine peak. We had 7 days of watching sunrises and sunsets. At least 4 fishermen’s trucks stopped everyday to sell fresh fish, shrimp, scallops and clams.we had our share.We filled our freezer . Kino is the shrimpcapital of Mexico ,they say.Our bicycles were very useful here. The Estuary is about 4 km to the east. Oyster beds, mangroves and shallow water create perfect conditions for bird life.
We actually left Winnipeg on the 18th of October taking our old established route with one night stops in Arlington, South Dakota; Stromsburg, Nebraska (“Sweden Capital”); Concordia, Kansas; Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife Refuge (no water in the ponds); Hoisington, Kansas, Perryton, Texas; Buffalo Lakes Wildlife Refuge (lakes completely dry), Texas; Alamogordo, New Mexico. After a stop in Deming, New Mexico, the first campground where we actually paid a fee, we primitive camped in the Cochise Stronghold National Forest. This is a mountain climbers heaven and we did our share of climbing and hiking. We stayed for 4 night until our water ran out. Our solar panels were sufficient for all electricity and computer. A week in Benson, Arizona at the Valley View Campground with full hook-ups (electric, water and sewer), hot showers and a good laundromat. (We did 5 loads of clothes). Wide open Arizona desert behind the campground - cactus, mesquite and rocks. Several dry washes (Arroyos) make perfect trails in the hills.
After a 3 hour drive, first on Interstate 10 and then going south on Hwy 83 turning onto the 30 km gravel road over Box Canyon we arrived at Madera Canyon. We stopped at our favorite primitive camp spot on Proctor Road, 2 km below the Canyon. My sister, Maria, and her husband, George, had reservations at the Santa Rita Lodge 2 days after our arrival. After meeting them at the Lodge we took them back to our camper for drinks and dinner and to watch the Tucson and Green Valley lights after dark . The next day George and Maria came back to us for pancake breakfast and then left for Phoenix in their rental car to catch a flight back to Vancouver,Canada .
The next day we continued to Nogales on the border, bought our Mexican Insurance and over nighted at the Insurance Company parking lot. We crossed the border and were through the Mexican Customs and Immigration by 9:30 and arrived in Kino Bay at 3 pm. We are still travelling in our Kodiak truck camper and have clocked almost 2000 nights in it. It is our moveable cottage.
2003 Europe - Holland, Scandinavia and Germany
We are booked on Air Canada to Amsterdam were we will pick up a car and travel via Northern Denmark and ferry to Kristiansand in Norway. We plan to see some of the beautiful scenery, Fjords and old Stave Churches. We will visit the area where Irene’s relatives two generations back immigrated from.
We will travel on to Sweden and parts of Eastern Germany where Chris lived in 1945 after he and part of his family were expelled from their home by the Czech Communists. Around August 15 we should be in Munich to visit Chris’s childhood friend, Jutta.
Langenneufnach, Bad Peterstal and Gernsbach round out the trip to visit Chris’s only relatives in Europe. Proud members of Weigl clan, Christian, Walter and Hannemi as well as our friend Ilse Gahn.
A month in Europe is unfortunately not very long. Our return flight leaves Amsterdam on August 26th.
July 28 to August 26, 2003
We picked up a VW Polo in Amsterdam with the intention of driving north to the Lauersee, a birding area for viewing European shore birds. Driving out of a larger European city requires courage, nerves of steel and optimism. We found out that a compass did not work in our case because the needle inside the car always had us going south - a time consuming mistake.
Beside packing all conventional things for an European trip including more than one credit card we had sleeping bags and a tent.
On our firsts night the tent came in handy as all cabins in this remote nature area were completely booked. We carried on the next day to Northern Germany crossing the Elbe River on a ferry. Our overnight was a quite luxurious first floor in a beautiful house, lovely bedroom with TV, a huge modern bathroom and a delicious large breakfast in the morning.
Our Inn in Denmark did not serve breakfast until 9 a.m. so we left without at 7:30 to try to make the ferry from Hirtshals to Kristiansand in Norway.
We arrived at our first overnight in Norway in the Sedetal in the early afternoon. Beautiful lake, cozy cabin. Our unpacking was interrupted by a heavy shower and we locked our keys inside the car. The expert who came from 20 km away to unlock the car accidentally shattered our window. He towed our car to his facility in the next town and supplied us with a replacement car for four days. We travelled around the beautiful southern, mountainous Norway including several Fjords including one that shimmered dark blue as we viewed the sight from about 900 meters above.
After visiting Oslo we saw beautiful old wooden buildings including a Stave Church that was several hundred years old, we climbed to the top of the world famous Ski jump at Holmenkolen for a fantastic view of Oslo.
About 80 km east of Oslo we visited the area where Irene’s mother’s ancestors came from. Third cousins from Washington who spent several months in Orje working on the family genealogy which they have now traced back 4 centuries welcomed us to their home. A work of love that has taken 10 years to document. We had the priviledge of spending an evening with them. The next morning we had the directions to see and visit the old beautifully kept graveyard, chatted with local church members and saw the farm where Irene’s mother’s relatives originated.
The next day we tented near the ocean south of Gotheborg. A short visit to Lund and Falsterbo then over the new bridge to Denmark. Bypassing Copenhagen we spent the night in a small cozy cabin in Guldborg.
A beautiful ferry from Rodby to Puttgarten. Modern with 3 dining rooms, freshly prepared Danish pastries, excellent coffee and duty free shopping. All available during a 45 min crossing. This makes the Canadian and American ferries operating between B.C. and Washington look like very poor cousins.
Wolfenbuttel and Goslar are perfectly preserved towns in Germany with picturesque half-timbered houses and historical buildings and churches.
Hohenwarte near Saalfeld is a small place located below a power dam in Turingia where Chris spent 6 months during 1945 and 46 together with his sister, Mother and Grandmother after being expelled from their home by the Communists. Hartmut, who was 8 years old at the time is now in charge of the family owned Hotel and Restaurant. He remembered Chris with great emotion and we stayed the night and reminisced about those dark days after the war.
Landshut is a beautiful old town north of Munich. After too short a visit our next destination was Munich. We spent 4 days at Jutta Schlerets quiet, gorgeous apartment. Sightseeing, beer gardens and a day with my school friend, Rainer Wallraf, are some of the highlights.
Short visit in Langneufnach and Bad Peterstal to visit Chris’ cousins, Christian and Walter and their families.
One day in the old French town of Saverne, then 2 night in Piesport on the Mosel River. In Grach we went to see Pauly Vinery and chatted with the present owner, the grandson of the man who supplied wines by the container to my Grandparents before the end of the WWII. Green vineyards, some dating back to the Romans and old Castles line this scenic river on both sides. Our last 3 night were spent in Breukelen, Holland. Only minutes by train from Amsterdam we revisited some of the places we enjoyed more than 25 years ago.
Irene identified over 70 new species of birds. We tented 3 times, stayed in huts, hotels, Inns and B&B’s, without any reservations, and a few days with friends for a total of 28 days.
Here are some other points worth mentioning:
1. Bicycle paths connect most towns just like auto routes. We could learn from this and implementing this in Canada could make biking much safer.
2. The limited access highways in Germany still have large sections with no speed limit. Our Polo comfortably did over 130 kph while others passed us constantly.
3. The use of Photo Radar is common everywhere - both for speed and traffic light control.
4. Driver’s discipline is markedly better than in Canada and the U.S.
5. Most everything is more expensive
6. Most cars look less that 5 years old
7. Trains, even commuters travel exceedingly fast, they break very quickly and stop at intermediate stations to allow the Intercity Express (ICC) to barrel through without slowing down. Timing is amazingly precise.
8. All Personal Watercraft (sea doos) are banned in Germany
9. All cell phone use is banned in Germany while driving.
All in all we had a great trip, travelled about 6,000km, stayed healthy, gained a few pounds and arrived home safely.
We will travel on to Sweden and parts of Eastern Germany where Chris lived in 1945 after he and part of his family were expelled from their home by the Czech Communists. Around August 15 we should be in Munich to visit Chris’s childhood friend, Jutta.
Langenneufnach, Bad Peterstal and Gernsbach round out the trip to visit Chris’s only relatives in Europe. Proud members of Weigl clan, Christian, Walter and Hannemi as well as our friend Ilse Gahn.
A month in Europe is unfortunately not very long. Our return flight leaves Amsterdam on August 26th.
July 28 to August 26, 2003
We picked up a VW Polo in Amsterdam with the intention of driving north to the Lauersee, a birding area for viewing European shore birds. Driving out of a larger European city requires courage, nerves of steel and optimism. We found out that a compass did not work in our case because the needle inside the car always had us going south - a time consuming mistake.
Beside packing all conventional things for an European trip including more than one credit card we had sleeping bags and a tent.
On our firsts night the tent came in handy as all cabins in this remote nature area were completely booked. We carried on the next day to Northern Germany crossing the Elbe River on a ferry. Our overnight was a quite luxurious first floor in a beautiful house, lovely bedroom with TV, a huge modern bathroom and a delicious large breakfast in the morning.
Our Inn in Denmark did not serve breakfast until 9 a.m. so we left without at 7:30 to try to make the ferry from Hirtshals to Kristiansand in Norway.
We arrived at our first overnight in Norway in the Sedetal in the early afternoon. Beautiful lake, cozy cabin. Our unpacking was interrupted by a heavy shower and we locked our keys inside the car. The expert who came from 20 km away to unlock the car accidentally shattered our window. He towed our car to his facility in the next town and supplied us with a replacement car for four days. We travelled around the beautiful southern, mountainous Norway including several Fjords including one that shimmered dark blue as we viewed the sight from about 900 meters above.
After visiting Oslo we saw beautiful old wooden buildings including a Stave Church that was several hundred years old, we climbed to the top of the world famous Ski jump at Holmenkolen for a fantastic view of Oslo.
About 80 km east of Oslo we visited the area where Irene’s mother’s ancestors came from. Third cousins from Washington who spent several months in Orje working on the family genealogy which they have now traced back 4 centuries welcomed us to their home. A work of love that has taken 10 years to document. We had the priviledge of spending an evening with them. The next morning we had the directions to see and visit the old beautifully kept graveyard, chatted with local church members and saw the farm where Irene’s mother’s relatives originated.
The next day we tented near the ocean south of Gotheborg. A short visit to Lund and Falsterbo then over the new bridge to Denmark. Bypassing Copenhagen we spent the night in a small cozy cabin in Guldborg.
A beautiful ferry from Rodby to Puttgarten. Modern with 3 dining rooms, freshly prepared Danish pastries, excellent coffee and duty free shopping. All available during a 45 min crossing. This makes the Canadian and American ferries operating between B.C. and Washington look like very poor cousins.
Wolfenbuttel and Goslar are perfectly preserved towns in Germany with picturesque half-timbered houses and historical buildings and churches.
Hohenwarte near Saalfeld is a small place located below a power dam in Turingia where Chris spent 6 months during 1945 and 46 together with his sister, Mother and Grandmother after being expelled from their home by the Communists. Hartmut, who was 8 years old at the time is now in charge of the family owned Hotel and Restaurant. He remembered Chris with great emotion and we stayed the night and reminisced about those dark days after the war.
Landshut is a beautiful old town north of Munich. After too short a visit our next destination was Munich. We spent 4 days at Jutta Schlerets quiet, gorgeous apartment. Sightseeing, beer gardens and a day with my school friend, Rainer Wallraf, are some of the highlights.
Short visit in Langneufnach and Bad Peterstal to visit Chris’ cousins, Christian and Walter and their families.
One day in the old French town of Saverne, then 2 night in Piesport on the Mosel River. In Grach we went to see Pauly Vinery and chatted with the present owner, the grandson of the man who supplied wines by the container to my Grandparents before the end of the WWII. Green vineyards, some dating back to the Romans and old Castles line this scenic river on both sides. Our last 3 night were spent in Breukelen, Holland. Only minutes by train from Amsterdam we revisited some of the places we enjoyed more than 25 years ago.
Irene identified over 70 new species of birds. We tented 3 times, stayed in huts, hotels, Inns and B&B’s, without any reservations, and a few days with friends for a total of 28 days.
Here are some other points worth mentioning:
1. Bicycle paths connect most towns just like auto routes. We could learn from this and implementing this in Canada could make biking much safer.
2. The limited access highways in Germany still have large sections with no speed limit. Our Polo comfortably did over 130 kph while others passed us constantly.
3. The use of Photo Radar is common everywhere - both for speed and traffic light control.
4. Driver’s discipline is markedly better than in Canada and the U.S.
5. Most everything is more expensive
6. Most cars look less that 5 years old
7. Trains, even commuters travel exceedingly fast, they break very quickly and stop at intermediate stations to allow the Intercity Express (ICC) to barrel through without slowing down. Timing is amazingly precise.
8. All Personal Watercraft (sea doos) are banned in Germany
9. All cell phone use is banned in Germany while driving.
All in all we had a great trip, travelled about 6,000km, stayed healthy, gained a few pounds and arrived home safely.
2003 Winnipeg to Quebec
May 10, 2003
We arrived home about 2 weeks ago. After a few weeks in Alamos, we visited Kino Bay, Mexico, Ruby Road, Sycamore Canyon and Madera Canyon in Arizona. On to Quartzite and Las Vegas. We had snow in the California mountain! We then travelled Hwy. 101 along the coast to Washington. We met Chris’ brother, Hans, and his partner, Amy in Washington. On the route home we visited with family in Vancouver, Cranbrook and Lethbridge. We had a very good trip on the return to Manitoba.
We always have many project when we arrived home and this year is no exception. Irene has been loading music onto our 20 gb MP3 player and we are also making plans for a European trip this summer.
Turn on your TV and watch “The Unauthorized Story of Three is Company” an NBC movie at 8 p.m. on Monday, May 12. See if you can find us as extras in the background. We stood right behind the actors at the cake flipping scene in evening dress and tuxedo. This was filmed in Winnipeg last fall. In total we had 4 costume changes for several scenes over 4 days of filming. Brian Dennehy is the main star in the TV movie about the hit TV show Three is Company with John Ritter and Susanne Sommers.
July 18, 2002
Today is +33 C (92'F) and the humidex is at +43' (108'F). This is Winnipeg in the summer. Air conditioners are really used in the cars and homes. This weather will continue for a few more days before we can expect some thunderstorms and cooling off.
We arrived back home the middle of April and since then we have taken a short trip to Saskatchewan and then a month long visit to Ontario and just into Quebec. The truck had quite a few kilometers on the motor so we figured it was time to have the motor rebuilt as the rest of the truck is in good shape. This neccessitated some travel in order to see if everything was in working order and the warranty was in effect. The truck preformed just fine and we enjoyed some great travel days. We visited with Ben Wassink in Chapeau, Quebec (also from La Laguna Sta Maria del Oro) and my son, Grant, and family in Orillia, Ontario. On our travel home we stopped in Cornell, Wisconsin to visit with Ralph and Helen Arneson (also from different areas in Mexico in the winter and long-time friends).
Our trip took us through the north route through Long Lac, and then Val d'Or, Quebec. We had some beautifull scenery and not much population so it was easy to camp on Crown Land or at "do-it-yourself" campsites. On the return trip the mosquitoes were out in full force but were a large and slower variety so they were easier to swat in the camper. Only a couple of nights were we bothered by no-see-ums. Since arriving home I have made special screens for the little ones as they are real pests at night. We were bothered much worse by them in Florida a few years ago so one never knows where you will encounter them but we will be prepared.
We arrived home about 2 weeks ago. After a few weeks in Alamos, we visited Kino Bay, Mexico, Ruby Road, Sycamore Canyon and Madera Canyon in Arizona. On to Quartzite and Las Vegas. We had snow in the California mountain! We then travelled Hwy. 101 along the coast to Washington. We met Chris’ brother, Hans, and his partner, Amy in Washington. On the route home we visited with family in Vancouver, Cranbrook and Lethbridge. We had a very good trip on the return to Manitoba.
We always have many project when we arrived home and this year is no exception. Irene has been loading music onto our 20 gb MP3 player and we are also making plans for a European trip this summer.
Turn on your TV and watch “The Unauthorized Story of Three is Company” an NBC movie at 8 p.m. on Monday, May 12. See if you can find us as extras in the background. We stood right behind the actors at the cake flipping scene in evening dress and tuxedo. This was filmed in Winnipeg last fall. In total we had 4 costume changes for several scenes over 4 days of filming. Brian Dennehy is the main star in the TV movie about the hit TV show Three is Company with John Ritter and Susanne Sommers.
July 18, 2002
Today is +33 C (92'F) and the humidex is at +43' (108'F). This is Winnipeg in the summer. Air conditioners are really used in the cars and homes. This weather will continue for a few more days before we can expect some thunderstorms and cooling off.
We arrived back home the middle of April and since then we have taken a short trip to Saskatchewan and then a month long visit to Ontario and just into Quebec. The truck had quite a few kilometers on the motor so we figured it was time to have the motor rebuilt as the rest of the truck is in good shape. This neccessitated some travel in order to see if everything was in working order and the warranty was in effect. The truck preformed just fine and we enjoyed some great travel days. We visited with Ben Wassink in Chapeau, Quebec (also from La Laguna Sta Maria del Oro) and my son, Grant, and family in Orillia, Ontario. On our travel home we stopped in Cornell, Wisconsin to visit with Ralph and Helen Arneson (also from different areas in Mexico in the winter and long-time friends).
Our trip took us through the north route through Long Lac, and then Val d'Or, Quebec. We had some beautifull scenery and not much population so it was easy to camp on Crown Land or at "do-it-yourself" campsites. On the return trip the mosquitoes were out in full force but were a large and slower variety so they were easier to swat in the camper. Only a couple of nights were we bothered by no-see-ums. Since arriving home I have made special screens for the little ones as they are real pests at night. We were bothered much worse by them in Florida a few years ago so one never knows where you will encounter them but we will be prepared.
2003 Palenque, Oaxaca, La Laguna and Alamos
January 8 to March 15, 2003
Irene mentioned the other day that we had spent a total of 1700 nights in our Kodiak camper. It sounds like a lot but it’s really only 4.7534 years.
We drove from Villahermosa to Palenque having decided that we would spend Christmas and New Years near the ruins of Palenque. “The ancient Mayan city with its superb jungle setting and exquisite architecture and decoration is one of the marvels of Mexico.” (page 894 Lonely Planet of Mexico). Mayabel had not changed a lot since the last time we were there in 1994. A cozy campground with a section of thatched roof palapas with hammocks for backpackers and spaces for RV’s some with hookups under the high jungle trees. An inviting swimming pool and a cozy small restaurant with almost nightly entertainment by very talented musicians. Guitars, drums and singing. The crowd was very international. People from every part of the Globe. Most stopped for 2 or 3 days. We stayed for 3 weeks. Great memories of the Howler monkeys growling like wild tigers, nice walks up to the Ruins and into the countryside, shopping trips to the village travelling by Colectivo and a 3 day trip by boat and bus into Guatemala to visit the “Manhattan of the Mayas”, Tikal. Temple number four has been called the Chrysler Building.
During the rainy Christmas days we had busloads of mostly inexperienced tenters from Mexico City, braving the weather despite of wet sleeping bags and many smoky campfires.
From Palenque to San Cristobal de las Casas is about 250 km. The bus takes 8 hours. It took us 2 day stopping Misol Ha, the magnificent waterfall. Water rushes over rocks surrounded by jungle trees straight down about 35 meters (100’) . The spray is so strong it hits spectators about 60-80 meters away. We walked down a steep trail with whet stone steps underneath and behind the falls. Quite an experience! Some people stood right next to the roaring water to have their picture taken.
Agua Azul was our next stop and overnight. These waterfalls are spread out over a distance of about 500 meters (1500’). Several cascades separated by rocks and vegetation finally join in a river with little islands. Ideal for swimming or kayaking. Simple kiosks and restaurants line the shore. Everything goes quiet at 6 pm. We overnighted right in front of the flowing waters and had a great sleep. A couple from Switzerland in a unique Nissan conversion camper and an American couple in a truck camper were parked along side us.
Palenque is almost at sea level, warm and humid, while our next destination San Cristobal is almost 2100 meters (7000’), dry, sunny and cold at night. A very scenic old town, native indios in colorful dress, interesting churches and buildings and in the hotbed of the Zapatista movement and the center of the Uprising of ‘94.
We carried on after 2 days. The road is over mountain ranges well over 2600 meters (8500’). Driving is slow and “curva peligrosa” (dangerous curves) signs are very frequent and “freno con motor” (break with motor) signs are on a great many downhills. This is a rollercoaster ride until you are almost at sea level.
It took us 2 days to get to our next destination of Oaxaca. A large old city, over 1500 meters (5000’) high. On the way we actually overnighted at a military checkpoint near a small village, quite safe and reasonably quiet. We had missed our campground about 50 km earlier.
Oaxaca is a BIG city in a valley surrounded by 7-8,000’ mountains one of which is crowned by Monte Alban, the ancient Zapotec Capital, first occupied 500 BC. Many pyramid type ruins have been restored. Oaxaca has a beautiful historic center with many old churches and magnificent buildings.
We found a beautiful campsite up the hill in San Felipe through our friend David, whom we met in Palenque. The San Felipe del Agua Trailer Park where David has his Motorhome is on the edge of a maguey field. Douglas French, the American owner, has lived in Mexico for 30 years and he produces one of the finest Mescal liquors in the country. We bought some that he poured out of a large 25 liter container into our own bottles, delicious to sip straight or mixed with Squirt, lime and ice.
During our 3 plus weeks stay we visited many interesting places and hiked the local hills above San Felipe, some treed and others partly covered with corn fields quite steep and dry. No rain is expected until May.
David invited us on a 3 day - 2 night trip in his Nissan SUV to Tuxtepec along Highway 175. We left early AM and in short order we were in the clouds again. Very steep and mountainous, over 2 high passes, finally ending in San Jose Chiltepec, on the Atlantic side of the Sierra where we spent the night at the best hotel in town. Double with bath, with hot shower, for 90 Mex Pesos ($12 Can). This town is almost at sea level. The villages along this route are friendly and do not see many tourists. On to Tuxtepec the next day for sight seeing and bird watching at various spots recommended in Irene’s birding books. Overnight at the Hotel Valle, at Valle Nacional, and then back to Oaxaca over the steep, winding mountain road which reached 10,000’ (3,200 m) at the summits, where it was terribly cold and windy.
On the last day of our stay in Oaxaca, we noticed a caravan of 18 RV’s jammed together in a small parking lot downtown. There were large expensive buses, 5th wheels, campers and trailers, with large national flags plastered on them and no Mexican flag visible. How fortunate we thought not having to travel with a group like that. The next day our destination was about 1/3 of the way to Cuernavaca at Balneario Atonaltzin at Tamazulapan. A small Mexican thermal spring resort with camping spots. We often stay at places like this and we are usually the only camper spending the night. We made our way through this town then down a very dusty road and came to the gate to buy our ticket. Low and behold the whole camping area was occupied by this caravan. We snaked our way through this mess of RV’s to a nice spot on the other end in the shade of a tree. We said Hello to a few people and exchange names. After parking and starting our fridge we went out to stroll around the back area outside the gates.
We returned about 2 hours later and to our surprise we found about 25 or more of this group making themselves comfortable right smack alongside our camper. Chairs lined up leaning on our truck. We could not even open the truck door to take our shoes off. Afternoon meeting with Games and Snacks. There went our quiet afternoon. They insisted we join. Some food followed by silly games. The group had arrived an hour before us, no one seemed to have either gone to look at the scenery nor enjoyed a swim. A woman showed off a large crocheted flag about the size of a door and told the ooooing crowd that her Grandmother had made it for her to take on the trip so that she always remembered what country she came from. This she repeated about 3 times. The games lasted about an hour, we left before they started. Irene went for a walk and she was seething mad and I prepared dinner. The screaming, loud laughing and trumpet blowing quit when they finally took their chairs and went back to their own vehicles. We declined the invitation to join them for Margaritas. Then we started smelling the typical exhaust fumes of generators. These people could not stop for one night without electricity without firing up a generator. One of their units was a Prevost that sells for about One Million US with a bank of batteries and yet they had to use generators. The stink was so bad that we had to move to the extreme end of the property to lessen the smell and the noise that finally quieted down a few hours later. We were the first ones to leave in morning because we did not want to get caught up with this group. We found out that morning that they were also going to Cuernavaca. There is only one campground in that city so we opted for an alternate plan as we had previously spent time in that city. There was NO way we would spend another night in the same campground with this Caravan group
At this point we were at about 6,000’. We bypassed Cuernavaca and just before Tepoztlan we joined a 6 lane highway that winds its way up and up steep and sometimes rocky mountains what seems to lead to the sky. This is the road to Mexico City about 50 km away. At about 8,000’ it appeared that we finally reached the peak when we realized that we were about halfway. We saw buses, 18 wheelers and cars way higher like toys winding their way. We finally made our exit at Tres Marais at about 10,500’. To put this altitude into perspective, Roger’s Pass in the Canadian Rockies is 4,350’. Very few passes in Colorado and California are over 5,000’.
The road to Toluca winds its way through part of the Zampoala pine forest. We stopped at the small alpine Lake Zampoala, which is surrounded by meadows and high treed forest. We stayed overnight by the Park Office, morning temperature was -3.5’C.
Through Toluca the next morning took us 2 hours to drive through this awful polluted rats nest of a City.
South side of Lake Chapalla for three days, then Villa Corona for three nights at a quiet thermal bath called El Tula. We were the only overnight guests. The owner filled a private hot pool for us to soak in. We swam in the large pool with a lake just in front of us.
Now we are in La Laguna Sta. Maria del Oro, 30 km east of Tepic. We will stay here for about 2 weeks. We plan to stay at Alamos, Sonora until the middle of March and then proceed via Arizona back to Canada.
2003 Guatemala and Tikal
Up the Usumacinta River from Chiapas to Guatemala -
to see the Three Wattled Bell Bird
At 6 am January 2, 2003 we are sitting in the dark on the steps at the reception/coffee shop Restaurant at Mayabel. It is the last Campground/Hammock/Palapa facility before the Palenque Ruins in the rain forest. It rained a lot here since we arrived here about 12 days ago.
The van to pick us up arrived at 6:20 am. Three passengers were already on board - 2 French tourists and one German. All back-packers. It is still dark and there are fog patches on the road. We make one more stop to pick up a Dutch family of five with college age children. I find out that they are going to the Yaxchilan Ruins about 150 km south of Palenque. Same route we are travelling.
As daylight breaks we see low clouds and grey sky threatening rain.
We pass small villages and houses along this exceptionally good paved windy road through fields and dark high forest. Names appear along the road - Chancala Zapote, Ejido Cascada, Cascada Asuncion. Angelalbino Corso, Nova Canan, Nuevo Francisco, El Paraiso, Nuevo Palestina. All indigenous population that speak their own language and have at times been hostile.
We stop at a parking lot for a prearranged excellent breakfast under thatched roofs in the trees. Several tables are set out buffet style food - eggs, beans, fruit juices, coffee etc. Several other vans with tourists from China, Europe, Australasia and Mexico are already there lining up for food or eating.
I meet a very interesting man at my table. He is from Mexico, had lived in various places in Europe. We talk about Bohemia, Bayreuth and music. He knew that Beethoven and Goethe had met in the famous Spa of Teplitz in Bohemia. We converse in English and excellent German.
Three days earlier we had arranged for this 3 Day package from Palenque to Tikal, Guatemala through a small agency in Palenque. We wanted to see the Ruins and hopefully a few new birds. Birding being one of our hobbies.
After breakfast we continue on to about 10 am, drop off the Dutch Family at a Lacondon Indian Village that provides Spartan accommodation for tourists. We pick up a few more tourists of various nationalities and are off to Frontera Corazal. Immigration takes our tourist cards. We find out that our visas are no longer multiple entry and we have to pay 180 pesos each (about $60 Canadian). Back on the van for about another 500 meters. We can now see the Usumacinta River through the trees as we drive down a gravel road to the Military check point.
Machine guns fortifications smart looking Mexican soldiers, very business like go through our luggage. About 10 boats are beached on the steep river bank. 
We climbed down the bank and carefully step onto our tippy boats. They are all about 10 meters long and 1 ½ meters wide, very streamlined with a thatched roof to keep out the sun or rain. We actually have neither. The river is about 150 meters wide, swollen from a lot of recent rain and moves about 15 km per hour. We have a 40 hp outboard motor and are going up the river with our trusty pilot navigator. About 20 people with 10 on each side, backpacks in the middle. Two big parrot like birds flying along get our attention. Very long tail slow wing beat. Almost immediately identified as Scarlet Macaws.
About 45 minutes later we land on the Guatemala side. While waiting for our bus that never comes I have an interesting conversion about Steinway Pianos with an young Austrian from St. Poelten. He is a piano design engineer and worked for Steinway for several years. He had interesting stories to tell about pianos.
Our group sits on logs and benches for about 25 minutes. Suddenly a man on a bicycle rushes down the hill and motions us to come with him. He urges us to hurry. We drag our luggage up the steep hill between ramshackled houses and pigs, chicken and children to a building 500 meters away. Guatemala Immigration. We get passports stamped, pay $5 US each and find out that we don’t have our arranged bus and can either wait for 2 hours or get on the local milk run/chicken bus for the 3 ½ hour ride to Flores. This bus appears to be owned by the same company as our tour transportation. A 45 passenger, 25 year old wreck, loaded with about 60-70 adults and children. I sit on a little triangle of bench next to a man and a women with a 5 year old girl on their lap. Two young boys are pressing towards me on the other side. I offer them some Juicy Fruit gum to make sure that I am on their good side. One is sucking on a can of Pepsi which comes close to blessing me with this popular 3rd world country product.
The bus bravely fights this bumpy gravel road that probably has never seen a grader. People get on and off at about 25 stops. We have a 10 minute rest in La Cruce. A few run to the local bano (bathroom). Irene and I don’t. It would take too long to get off the bus and we do not know how long it stops and we would loose our precious seats. I later find out that you needed 2 Quetzals. So far none of us tourists had a chance to get any local currency. Our next stop is at St. Elena on the shore of the lake on which Flores is located. Our destination for the next two nights. Elbowing our way to the front of the San Juan Travel Agency our tour vouchers have to be rewritten. They own a hotel, car rental, most of the buses and what else. We transfer to a mini van. Be careful, don’t put your luggage on the top as it is already piled high. Keep it between your legs. We are taken across the bridge to Flores. The small picturesque (from the distance) island town. Dust, pollution and slight hint of sewer prevails. Several women wash laundry in the lake just off the bridge. There is some fiesta starting. Someone tells us it is the Peten Festival. Beer flags for decoration are strung across the narrow streets, balloons and half tennis court size Tecate signs are strapped on buildings. American style music is blaring from giant loud speakers. Narrow
streets are blocked off by beer tents. We get to our hotel in a round about way. Drag our packs up the steps to the reception. After a few minutes wait a girl shows up. We show her our voucher. She tells us to wait “un momentito”. After what seems like 10 minutes an English speaking man comes and tell us that unfortunately our hotel is fully booked but luckily they (whoever they are) found us another hotel just around the corner. By now it is 4:30 p.m.. We carry our stuff to the other hotel. Climb the stairs to the room accompanied by the man. He says that we will like this room. “It is very clean and just as good as the one in the other hotel”. He unlocks the door. “Oh!” The room has not been made up and cleaned. “Very sorry” he says, “Only another 20 minutes”. Instead of a shower we drag our luggage back down the street (we are reluctant to leave them in the unmade room) and have two beers and tacos with friends we had met on the boat. We did take our room keys.
The next morning we get up at 4:15 am. We had actually set the alarm for 5 am to get the bus at 6 am to go to Tikal 65 km away. We did not need to have set the alarm, fire crackers at 4 am will do it just the same or better. It had rained hard about 7:30 p.m. and rained again with low clouds on the way to the Ruins.
We stop at the gate of the Park about 16 km from the actual site. It is pouring. “Everybody off the bus to buy the entrance tickets” the driver announces. Fifty Quetzals ($20) each. We protest several times saying that we had already paid in our Package. To no avail we pay again under protest. We will take it up with the agent in Palenque.
Several other people who had also prepaid are not coming back to Palenque but continuing on to other destinations. No chance for them to get their money back. Another tourist scam?
Tikal is huge! The buildings are spread out over a large area. The ground is covered by tall tropical trees. I am told that the Star War II movie has some fantastic scenes shot at Tikal at Temple IV. There is much written about Tikal so I won’t elaborate. Several interesting birds some lifers for Irene and me.
We return to Flores too tired to go to the San Juan agent in the neighboring town to complain about the Tikal entrance fee.
We leave the next morning at 5 am (5:30 Guatemala time). Quite a sight seeing two to three dozen tourists of at least 10 different nationalities, sitting on the bags in the dark, on the sidewalk, in the narrow streets. Smelly, smoky taxis rumbling by, buses and vans stopping and calling out names of destinations like Tikal, San Ignacio, Belize, Chetumal. Picking up one or more tired passengers. By the time we were picked up we had got to know a number of other travellers in the street from England, Norway, Germany, Switzerland, Italy and South America. Even met a couple who used to live in Winnipeg and now Saskatoon. This time the bus to the river is much better, takes an hour less. The Guatemala Immigration wants another $5 US We protest several times. We had been told that this is a one time fee. The Official finally apologizes and lets us go. Several people on the bus did pay twice and had no chance to go back to retrieve their money.
The river trip downstream only takes 15 minutes. Lots of scary whirlpools.
Friendly luggage search by the Mexican Army. Ten minutes later new Tourist Cards and 3 hours later back in Palenque. A short Colectivo ride brings us back to Mayabel our home away from home. We are ready for a drink and a good nights sleep.
Oh yes, we did not see the Three-wattled Bell Bird as it does not come to this area, but we saw the White Hawk, Ocellated Turkey and the King Vulture and many other exotic birds. Well, what do you expect when it rains a lot and the sun does not shine.
Advice to other tourists. Do not buy inclusive packages, just get a one way Colectivo package Palenque to the river and on to Flores. Get your own hotel and buy another one way back to Palenque or any other destination you have in mind. Example Flores to Palenque one way, bus, boat, van is only $30 US The agency we used in Palenque is Touristica Maya Chiapas. SA de CV. Av. Juarez #123C, Tel 01916 345 0798, fax - same number, E-mail “turismaya@redmaya.com”
Monday, January 6 we returned to our agent in Palenque who gladly refunded us the Tikal admission price. He was pleased to get a report from us and intends to take up the problems with tour operator in Guatemala.
Santayana, a famous travel writer wrote, “There is wisdom in turning as often as possible from the familiar to the unfamiliar; it keeps the mind nimble; it kills prejudice, and it fosters humor”.
Report by Chris Weigl, January 6, 2003
P.S.
January 25, 2003
Thinking back we really had a great trip. The hardships are fading into the background and the great memories remain. This is a trip we would recommend to anyone.
to see the Three Wattled Bell Bird
At 6 am January 2, 2003 we are sitting in the dark on the steps at the reception/coffee shop Restaurant at Mayabel. It is the last Campground/Hammock/Palapa facility before the Palenque Ruins in the rain forest. It rained a lot here since we arrived here about 12 days ago.
The van to pick us up arrived at 6:20 am. Three passengers were already on board - 2 French tourists and one German. All back-packers. It is still dark and there are fog patches on the road. We make one more stop to pick up a Dutch family of five with college age children. I find out that they are going to the Yaxchilan Ruins about 150 km south of Palenque. Same route we are travelling.
As daylight breaks we see low clouds and grey sky threatening rain.
We pass small villages and houses along this exceptionally good paved windy road through fields and dark high forest. Names appear along the road - Chancala Zapote, Ejido Cascada, Cascada Asuncion. Angelalbino Corso, Nova Canan, Nuevo Francisco, El Paraiso, Nuevo Palestina. All indigenous population that speak their own language and have at times been hostile.
We stop at a parking lot for a prearranged excellent breakfast under thatched roofs in the trees. Several tables are set out buffet style food - eggs, beans, fruit juices, coffee etc. Several other vans with tourists from China, Europe, Australasia and Mexico are already there lining up for food or eating.
I meet a very interesting man at my table. He is from Mexico, had lived in various places in Europe. We talk about Bohemia, Bayreuth and music. He knew that Beethoven and Goethe had met in the famous Spa of Teplitz in Bohemia. We converse in English and excellent German.
Three days earlier we had arranged for this 3 Day package from Palenque to Tikal, Guatemala through a small agency in Palenque. We wanted to see the Ruins and hopefully a few new birds. Birding being one of our hobbies.
After breakfast we continue on to about 10 am, drop off the Dutch Family at a Lacondon Indian Village that provides Spartan accommodation for tourists. We pick up a few more tourists of various nationalities and are off to Frontera Corazal. Immigration takes our tourist cards. We find out that our visas are no longer multiple entry and we have to pay 180 pesos each (about $60 Canadian). Back on the van for about another 500 meters. We can now see the Usumacinta River through the trees as we drive down a gravel road to the Military check point.
Machine guns fortifications smart looking Mexican soldiers, very business like go through our luggage. About 10 boats are beached on the steep river bank. 
We climbed down the bank and carefully step onto our tippy boats. They are all about 10 meters long and 1 ½ meters wide, very streamlined with a thatched roof to keep out the sun or rain. We actually have neither. The river is about 150 meters wide, swollen from a lot of recent rain and moves about 15 km per hour. We have a 40 hp outboard motor and are going up the river with our trusty pilot navigator. About 20 people with 10 on each side, backpacks in the middle. Two big parrot like birds flying along get our attention. Very long tail slow wing beat. Almost immediately identified as Scarlet Macaws.About 45 minutes later we land on the Guatemala side. While waiting for our bus that never comes I have an interesting conversion about Steinway Pianos with an young Austrian from St. Poelten. He is a piano design engineer and worked for Steinway for several years. He had interesting stories to tell about pianos.
Our group sits on logs and benches for about 25 minutes. Suddenly a man on a bicycle rushes down the hill and motions us to come with him. He urges us to hurry. We drag our luggage up the steep hill between ramshackled houses and pigs, chicken and children to a building 500 meters away. Guatemala Immigration. We get passports stamped, pay $5 US each and find out that we don’t have our arranged bus and can either wait for 2 hours or get on the local milk run/chicken bus for the 3 ½ hour ride to Flores. This bus appears to be owned by the same company as our tour transportation. A 45 passenger, 25 year old wreck, loaded with about 60-70 adults and children. I sit on a little triangle of bench next to a man and a women with a 5 year old girl on their lap. Two young boys are pressing towards me on the other side. I offer them some Juicy Fruit gum to make sure that I am on their good side. One is sucking on a can of Pepsi which comes close to blessing me with this popular 3rd world country product.
The bus bravely fights this bumpy gravel road that probably has never seen a grader. People get on and off at about 25 stops. We have a 10 minute rest in La Cruce. A few run to the local bano (bathroom). Irene and I don’t. It would take too long to get off the bus and we do not know how long it stops and we would loose our precious seats. I later find out that you needed 2 Quetzals. So far none of us tourists had a chance to get any local currency. Our next stop is at St. Elena on the shore of the lake on which Flores is located. Our destination for the next two nights. Elbowing our way to the front of the San Juan Travel Agency our tour vouchers have to be rewritten. They own a hotel, car rental, most of the buses and what else. We transfer to a mini van. Be careful, don’t put your luggage on the top as it is already piled high. Keep it between your legs. We are taken across the bridge to Flores. The small picturesque (from the distance) island town. Dust, pollution and slight hint of sewer prevails. Several women wash laundry in the lake just off the bridge. There is some fiesta starting. Someone tells us it is the Peten Festival. Beer flags for decoration are strung across the narrow streets, balloons and half tennis court size Tecate signs are strapped on buildings. American style music is blaring from giant loud speakers. Narrow
streets are blocked off by beer tents. We get to our hotel in a round about way. Drag our packs up the steps to the reception. After a few minutes wait a girl shows up. We show her our voucher. She tells us to wait “un momentito”. After what seems like 10 minutes an English speaking man comes and tell us that unfortunately our hotel is fully booked but luckily they (whoever they are) found us another hotel just around the corner. By now it is 4:30 p.m.. We carry our stuff to the other hotel. Climb the stairs to the room accompanied by the man. He says that we will like this room. “It is very clean and just as good as the one in the other hotel”. He unlocks the door. “Oh!” The room has not been made up and cleaned. “Very sorry” he says, “Only another 20 minutes”. Instead of a shower we drag our luggage back down the street (we are reluctant to leave them in the unmade room) and have two beers and tacos with friends we had met on the boat. We did take our room keys.
The next morning we get up at 4:15 am. We had actually set the alarm for 5 am to get the bus at 6 am to go to Tikal 65 km away. We did not need to have set the alarm, fire crackers at 4 am will do it just the same or better. It had rained hard about 7:30 p.m. and rained again with low clouds on the way to the Ruins.
We stop at the gate of the Park about 16 km from the actual site. It is pouring. “Everybody off the bus to buy the entrance tickets” the driver announces. Fifty Quetzals ($20) each. We protest several times saying that we had already paid in our Package. To no avail we pay again under protest. We will take it up with the agent in Palenque.
Several other people who had also prepaid are not coming back to Palenque but continuing on to other destinations. No chance for them to get their money back. Another tourist scam?
Tikal is huge! The buildings are spread out over a large area. The ground is covered by tall tropical trees. I am told that the Star War II movie has some fantastic scenes shot at Tikal at Temple IV. There is much written about Tikal so I won’t elaborate. Several interesting birds some lifers for Irene and me.
We return to Flores too tired to go to the San Juan agent in the neighboring town to complain about the Tikal entrance fee.
We leave the next morning at 5 am (5:30 Guatemala time). Quite a sight seeing two to three dozen tourists of at least 10 different nationalities, sitting on the bags in the dark, on the sidewalk, in the narrow streets. Smelly, smoky taxis rumbling by, buses and vans stopping and calling out names of destinations like Tikal, San Ignacio, Belize, Chetumal. Picking up one or more tired passengers. By the time we were picked up we had got to know a number of other travellers in the street from England, Norway, Germany, Switzerland, Italy and South America. Even met a couple who used to live in Winnipeg and now Saskatoon. This time the bus to the river is much better, takes an hour less. The Guatemala Immigration wants another $5 US We protest several times. We had been told that this is a one time fee. The Official finally apologizes and lets us go. Several people on the bus did pay twice and had no chance to go back to retrieve their money.
The river trip downstream only takes 15 minutes. Lots of scary whirlpools.
Friendly luggage search by the Mexican Army. Ten minutes later new Tourist Cards and 3 hours later back in Palenque. A short Colectivo ride brings us back to Mayabel our home away from home. We are ready for a drink and a good nights sleep.
Oh yes, we did not see the Three-wattled Bell Bird as it does not come to this area, but we saw the White Hawk, Ocellated Turkey and the King Vulture and many other exotic birds. Well, what do you expect when it rains a lot and the sun does not shine.
Advice to other tourists. Do not buy inclusive packages, just get a one way Colectivo package Palenque to the river and on to Flores. Get your own hotel and buy another one way back to Palenque or any other destination you have in mind. Example Flores to Palenque one way, bus, boat, van is only $30 US The agency we used in Palenque is Touristica Maya Chiapas. SA de CV. Av. Juarez #123C, Tel 01916 345 0798, fax - same number, E-mail “turismaya@redmaya.com”
Monday, January 6 we returned to our agent in Palenque who gladly refunded us the Tikal admission price. He was pleased to get a report from us and intends to take up the problems with tour operator in Guatemala.
Santayana, a famous travel writer wrote, “There is wisdom in turning as often as possible from the familiar to the unfamiliar; it keeps the mind nimble; it kills prejudice, and it fosters humor”.
Report by Chris Weigl, January 6, 2003
P.S.
January 25, 2003
Thinking back we really had a great trip. The hardships are fading into the background and the great memories remain. This is a trip we would recommend to anyone.
2002 Christmas - to Palenque
It is that time of year again.
MERRY CHRISTMAS and ALL THE BEST IN THE NEW YEAR!!
We are currently enroute to Palenque area. We changed our plans and are going further south.
We have just left the Los Tuxlas area south of Veracruz. This area is a range of volcanic peaks and ridges that reach from sea level in the Bay of Campeche to about 6,000'. In this area is Lake Catemaco formed from several extinct volcanoes. The area is very rugged and ranges from moist tropical jungles to pineapple, banana, orange plantations and cattle farms. The habitat for birds is tremendous but the area has lost much of its jungle due to agriculture. There is a movement by William Shaldach Jr. to have this restored but it will take time and money.
We will be moving on through the marsh area of Tabasco were the Olmec Heads were found. These large carved heads weigh tons and have been moved to a museum at Villahermosa. The lands where they were found have been drained for the development of the oil industry.
When we think of you at Christmas time we will be at a campground about 1km from the famous Palenque Mayan Ruins. They are one of the most mystical and beautiful ruins on the Mayan route.
We hope the New Year for you will be the best ever!
Chris and Irene
MERRY CHRISTMAS and ALL THE BEST IN THE NEW YEAR!!
We are currently enroute to Palenque area. We changed our plans and are going further south.
We have just left the Los Tuxlas area south of Veracruz. This area is a range of volcanic peaks and ridges that reach from sea level in the Bay of Campeche to about 6,000'. In this area is Lake Catemaco formed from several extinct volcanoes. The area is very rugged and ranges from moist tropical jungles to pineapple, banana, orange plantations and cattle farms. The habitat for birds is tremendous but the area has lost much of its jungle due to agriculture. There is a movement by William Shaldach Jr. to have this restored but it will take time and money.
We will be moving on through the marsh area of Tabasco were the Olmec Heads were found. These large carved heads weigh tons and have been moved to a museum at Villahermosa. The lands where they were found have been drained for the development of the oil industry.
When we think of you at Christmas time we will be at a campground about 1km from the famous Palenque Mayan Ruins. They are one of the most mystical and beautiful ruins on the Mayan route.
We hope the New Year for you will be the best ever!
Chris and Irene
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