We entered Mexico later than usual this year through Progresso Nuevo near McAllen, Texas – our 15th visit to Mexico, a wonderful country, friendly and helpful people. You got to love it!
The campgrounds are a different story. They could be called an enigma. Our first stop was Ciudad Victoria. The Victoria Trailer Park has been here for decades, owned and run by Russ and Rosie. Russ is from Wisconsin. They call it the friendliest campground in Mexico. Friendly, yes, but not the cleanest bathrooms. Rosie also turns the hot water off to save money. We make sure we check the water temperature before taking off our clothes. We booked for one month which costs as much as the daily rate times 11. We split our visit with 2 weeks at a time.
Our next stop was to be Gomez Farias in the El Cielo Biosphere Cloud Forest, just 100 km south. The new Lonely Planet Guide Book shows the Hacienda Huasteca Ranch just outside the pretty mountain town. On our way up the mountain we looked for the Rancho and could not find it, continued into town and found a parking spot on the tiny tree covered plaza. Asked the police who took us to the Mayor's office, several locals one of whom could speak some English. No one ever heard of Rancho Huasteca. We decided to carry on another 100 km to Ciudad Mante. We made one stop at Bocatoma Balneario (springs) at the foot of the mountain. A delightful place with lots of birds, not a soul around (one goat shepherd came by with his herd). It would have been a lovely place to spend the night but we did not like the idea of being all by ourselves.
While in Texas we were given a brochure and information on a new campground on the outskirts of the town of Ciudad Mante by a Mexican Tourist Promotion Rep at a Travel Show. Upon arrival in Mante we asked several people about the Campground. Some even made telephone calls for us. Nobody had any idea or ever heard of this resort. We had to stay at the Hotel Mante downtown – they have a few Trailer spots. We then walked to the City Hall and inquired at their Tourist Office. The man obviously did not know, but with the help of our brochure (which he had never seen) he was able to get an answer on the telephone. Fifteen minutes later the owner arrived and drove us to his campground - Swimming pools, shuffleboards, tennis courts, restaurant. An old established social club he had just converted and changed the name. There were no signs, no directions. We were the first Trailer guests. We became friends and we are invited back in the future. “ His casa is our casa”.
On to the town of Ciudad Valles with its nicely shaded Trailer Park right at the Hotel Valles. The nicest hotel in town. A large 3 meter x 1 meter sign “Trailer Park” right at the huge and impressive entrance gate, we drove in and asked at the reception and we were told that the Park had been closed for almost one year. (We had stayed there other years). Nobody bothered to remove the Trailer Park sign. We stayed in the parking lot long enough to do our internet on their wireless service and went on to El Banito. The nice warm water balneario (pools) 11 km south. Great place to stay and our 4th visit.
Across the street is a Golf Course along the river with great selection of birds including parrots, trogons and motmots.
Tamasopo waterfalls, some of the most beautiful ones we have seen was our next stop. We spent a few days birding and hiking to Puente de Dios (Bridge of the Gods) Waterfalls. Our second visit.
After one week on the beach at Barra del Tordo ($3/per day including electric) We are now back in Ciudad Victoria for 2 more weeks and will then return to McAllen, Texas.
For all of you that we have not heard from - How did you spend your winter months? We are interested to know.
For more information on this area and including Ciudad Victoria go to the website www.mexico-with-heart.com It is an interesting blog site.
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
2005 Bandera, Texas
Life is Great!
We are in Bandara, (Hill Country, Texas and 25'c. Our favorite town in Texas. It is 400 m (1200') high and a population of about 1000.
After returning to Winnipeg after 33 hours plus trip from Johannesburg via Atlanta, USA (don't do it) on Oct 13. We left the end of Oct for points south. Seven days driving we arrived in Zapata, Texas on the Falcon Dam Lake. We stayed at Sunset Villa on part of the Rio Grande. Hot as Hell! Up to 32' everyday and cooled off to 28'c at night. One week of this heat was enough so we went back north to our favorite Texas town in the “Hill Country” and 42 miles west of San Antonio. Lovely place! Main street – like Corydon Ave in Winnipeg- has coffee shops, bars, boutiques, restaurants except here they have cowboy shops. We wish to stay for a while (until in starts to get too cold) Today was a Veteran's Day parade with bands, lots of horses and old military vehicles. Main Street is only 1 block from us.
2005 South Africa
Fall 2005
South Africa is a huge country and we spent weeks in the planning. We had to plan our best route for birds and animals, with time for sightseeing.
Our six weeks in Africa involved lots of travelling (driving on the left), birdwatching, sightseeing and mainly watching for animals that Africa is so famous for.
Starting at the beginning. Our flight originated in Toronto, changed to South African Airways and stopped in Dakar, Senegal for refueling. Seventeen hours later we landed in Johannesburg where we were met by a representative of our van rental company and taken to a very nice Bed and Breakfast -Klip Els. The next day we outfitted our camper with supplies and headed out of town. Our next stops included Witbank (Dam Recreation Area) and Wakkerstroom (Weavers Rest B&B, and Die Oude Stasi).
On to Nature Reserves. Poponga and Mkuzi where we saw a variety of animals at the drying-up water hole. Birds were numerous and kept us busy identifying them. We had hoped to see elephants but because of lack of water they had moved out of the St. Lucia area to Charters Creek where we had just come from.
We left the Indian Ocean area and our camp that was infested with Ververt Monkeys and Mongooses. These were actually pests and broke into any camp that had food around wasn't locked up and stored properly. It actually was funny watching the attendant trying to chase them off and they only made a circle around him and went back to the camp. We have this circus captured on video tape.
Eschowe. This town has a beautifully built aerial skyway, great museum basket gallery and restaurant. We stayed a couple of nights in the Municipal Campground and walked along the river, which had a biking/walking trail. We needed some car repairs and this was promptly done while we went for lunch and did our Internet.
Leaving Eschowe for Lake Eland Game Ranch, Port Shepstone we gassed-up at Ultra City ( a full service mall along the freeway). This particular one had a number of handicraft shops with great
items and very good prices. We bought a carved African chair, which now is in use in our Living room. We drove to Shepstone via the Oribi Gorge as we thought we could camp there, but the camp was closed and with inquiries we found the Game Ranch. We had rain in Eschowe and here we had
a high wind, which was fine the second day. We found a
spectacular coffee shop overlooking a deep river gorge. The Leopard Rock Coffee House – and the coffee and food was also good.
On to Underberg where we will take a day trip to Sani Pass, Lesotho. We had rented a used camper (the price was right), but after fixing the carburetor we now had work on the muffler as we could smell exhaust in the camper. The shop took it in right away and we were soon on our way again. The local Nature Reserve was closed for camping and ended up parking at Sani Tours B & B. This was very handy as we were travelling with them the next day. The road to Sani Pass can only be done in 4x4 as it is steep, extremely rough and spectacular. We had a gorgeous day for the trip with lots of picture opportunities. At the top 2900m (9500') it was quite barren with very little vegetation. The restaurant was operated by the local people and did a great job of serving everyone and the food was also very good. The setting was awesome overlooking the valley below. We had a tour and informative talk about the local people and their customs. We had some special bird sightings on this high elevation including small ice rats.
Leaving Underberg we stopped at Howick Falls (very touristy) and found the KZN Nature Conservation Park at Midmar. It was a dam and recreational center, but was quiet when we were there. We only stayed one night and the next day we drove through Ladysmith. It was market day and very busy and not inviting to stop. Just north of there is the location where Nelson Mandela was captured. It was rolling hills, green with lots of trees. Before arriving at Memel we drove a high pass area. Memel has a large wetlands – Seekoeivlei. We obtained the key to the gate at the Tourist Information Centre and spent the day driving the wetlands. We enjoyed 2 meals and beer at the local hotel. The food was excellent and the ambiance of the old hotel was most pleasant.
We left the scenic clean air of the Memel area and Dumel Caravan Park and on to Village Lodge & Campground, Laskop Dam. We drove through the coal mining area with huge double trucks transporting coal to the electric plants. Not pleasant! Loskop Dam was not too productive for animals except for monkeys and one giraffe. It was very dry and the gravel road was dusty. We camped beside a stream and it was good for birding. The large new bathroom only had bathtubs for the women and 1 shower and bathtubs for the men. We found every camp had one or more bathtubs and a shower and they were very clean and spacious.
Dinonyane Lodge, Nylvlei was our next stop. Again we saw the effects of the drought. The marshland was dry and there was only a little water left in the low area. We decided to treat ourselves to a stay in a lodge near the Reserve. The area was disappointing for birds and animals – due to the dryness.
We stayed 2 nights and on to the mountainous area in the Magoebaskloof area. This is a wooded mountain area with winding road. The road was excellent but curvy. We stayed at the lovely Ruskamp Lodge and Campground. Our drive took us through a dusty very poor area near Petersburg and by the huge razor wired area of Zion City (a religious group). There was a campground advertised in Tzaneen at the main hotel, but it was closed and we were directed out of town (had trouble finding the right road) to Camp David (through a farmers field) at Olcalaco. Birding was good in the campground.
We had 2 more stops before we get to Kruger National Park. First do Adventura Blyde Canyon. What a canyon area!. Huge sculptured rocks, deep canyons, rivers and waterfalls. As we travelled we stopped at all the viewpoints and rest stops. Each one was beautiful, and each had vendors selling tablecloths, animal carvings and all tourist souvenirs. We did buy a few small things especially the tablecloths. Had difficulty finding a campground in Hazyview. Here we encountered our first security problem. After grocery shopping in Hazyview we were putting things away inside the vehicle when a long arm reached in and had ahold of Irene's purse. She screamed and he let go of it. The security women were right there dealing with the young men. The women carry long hardwood sticks which they use to enforce the law.
Our last week is spent driving the length of Kruger National Park, which afforded many animal sightings. The weather started out very hot in the south 40'C every day but became more pleasant as we drove north. It was extremely dry and the water holes were starting to dry up. One large campground (Shingwedze) was on the verge of closing as the wells had run dry. We stayed at a different site every night, and in one case took a cabin. We had reserved and paid for all the campsites before leaving home via the Internet. We had heard of people not being able to get into Kruger as they were completely booked and we did not wish that to happen as this is a very special place. The camps we went to were Crocodile Bridge, Lower Sabie, Satara, Letaba, Shingwidzi and Punda Maria. All the campsites here were without any grass, dusty and poorly maintained. The bathrooms were very clean and well kept. We saw “the big 5” elephant, rhino, giraffe, hippo and lion. Our view of the lions was not great, but we did see them. The main road was excellent, but some of the side gravel roads were very rough.
From Punda Maria camp in the north we left for Ben Lavin Nature Reserve. The route took us by a “Homeland” settlement that went on for miles and miles. Our next day was a long drive to Mar-Leo Camp, Roodeplaat Dam. A pretty spot beside a lake, but the camp buildings were mediocre. We were just north of Johannesburg so our final days drive was not long. After dealing with all the traffic on the outskirts of the city and returning the vehicle we settled into the Klip-Els B & B for our last night in South Africa.
It had been a good trip, we saw lots of everything. We saw 340 species of birds and almost all of these were first time sightings. This was all quite exciting – the first was just as beautiful as the last one we saw. The roads and infrastructure of South Africa is excellent, and this includes the condition of the roads and the sign-age. We did buy bottled water for drinking but the water systems were good where ever we went. We are glad we made this trip before there are drastic changes in this country. There still is unrest and the insecurity about the future for the Afrikaners.
Our return flight was about 17 hours with a stop in Cape Verde for refuelling and then a plane change in Atlanta. Our advise is never do this – being in transit and having to land in the USA you are required to clear Customs as if you were staying and then go through security again to board your flight to Canada. You are asked what is the reason for your visit and it is only to catch the flight to Toronto. It is a long gruelling process and we have vowed NEVER to transit through the USA again.
South Africa is a huge country and we spent weeks in the planning. We had to plan our best route for birds and animals, with time for sightseeing.
Our six weeks in Africa involved lots of travelling (driving on the left), birdwatching, sightseeing and mainly watching for animals that Africa is so famous for.
Starting at the beginning. Our flight originated in Toronto, changed to South African Airways and stopped in Dakar, Senegal for refueling. Seventeen hours later we landed in Johannesburg where we were met by a representative of our van rental company and taken to a very nice Bed and Breakfast -Klip Els. The next day we outfitted our camper with supplies and headed out of town. Our next stops included Witbank (Dam Recreation Area) and Wakkerstroom (Weavers Rest B&B, and Die Oude Stasi).
On to Nature Reserves. Poponga and Mkuzi where we saw a variety of animals at the drying-up water hole. Birds were numerous and kept us busy identifying them. We had hoped to see elephants but because of lack of water they had moved out of the St. Lucia area to Charters Creek where we had just come from.
We left the Indian Ocean area and our camp that was infested with Ververt Monkeys and Mongooses. These were actually pests and broke into any camp that had food around wasn't locked up and stored properly. It actually was funny watching the attendant trying to chase them off and they only made a circle around him and went back to the camp. We have this circus captured on video tape.
Eschowe. This town has a beautifully built aerial skyway, great museum basket gallery and restaurant. We stayed a couple of nights in the Municipal Campground and walked along the river, which had a biking/walking trail. We needed some car repairs and this was promptly done while we went for lunch and did our Internet.
Leaving Eschowe for Lake Eland Game Ranch, Port Shepstone we gassed-up at Ultra City ( a full service mall along the freeway). This particular one had a number of handicraft shops with great
items and very good prices. We bought a carved African chair, which now is in use in our Living room. We drove to Shepstone via the Oribi Gorge as we thought we could camp there, but the camp was closed and with inquiries we found the Game Ranch. We had rain in Eschowe and here we had
a high wind, which was fine the second day. We found a
spectacular coffee shop overlooking a deep river gorge. The Leopard Rock Coffee House – and the coffee and food was also good.
On to Underberg where we will take a day trip to Sani Pass, Lesotho. We had rented a used camper (the price was right), but after fixing the carburetor we now had work on the muffler as we could smell exhaust in the camper. The shop took it in right away and we were soon on our way again. The local Nature Reserve was closed for camping and ended up parking at Sani Tours B & B. This was very handy as we were travelling with them the next day. The road to Sani Pass can only be done in 4x4 as it is steep, extremely rough and spectacular. We had a gorgeous day for the trip with lots of picture opportunities. At the top 2900m (9500') it was quite barren with very little vegetation. The restaurant was operated by the local people and did a great job of serving everyone and the food was also very good. The setting was awesome overlooking the valley below. We had a tour and informative talk about the local people and their customs. We had some special bird sightings on this high elevation including small ice rats.
Leaving Underberg we stopped at Howick Falls (very touristy) and found the KZN Nature Conservation Park at Midmar. It was a dam and recreational center, but was quiet when we were there. We only stayed one night and the next day we drove through Ladysmith. It was market day and very busy and not inviting to stop. Just north of there is the location where Nelson Mandela was captured. It was rolling hills, green with lots of trees. Before arriving at Memel we drove a high pass area. Memel has a large wetlands – Seekoeivlei. We obtained the key to the gate at the Tourist Information Centre and spent the day driving the wetlands. We enjoyed 2 meals and beer at the local hotel. The food was excellent and the ambiance of the old hotel was most pleasant.
We left the scenic clean air of the Memel area and Dumel Caravan Park and on to Village Lodge & Campground, Laskop Dam. We drove through the coal mining area with huge double trucks transporting coal to the electric plants. Not pleasant! Loskop Dam was not too productive for animals except for monkeys and one giraffe. It was very dry and the gravel road was dusty. We camped beside a stream and it was good for birding. The large new bathroom only had bathtubs for the women and 1 shower and bathtubs for the men. We found every camp had one or more bathtubs and a shower and they were very clean and spacious.
Dinonyane Lodge, Nylvlei was our next stop. Again we saw the effects of the drought. The marshland was dry and there was only a little water left in the low area. We decided to treat ourselves to a stay in a lodge near the Reserve. The area was disappointing for birds and animals – due to the dryness.
We stayed 2 nights and on to the mountainous area in the Magoebaskloof area. This is a wooded mountain area with winding road. The road was excellent but curvy. We stayed at the lovely Ruskamp Lodge and Campground. Our drive took us through a dusty very poor area near Petersburg and by the huge razor wired area of Zion City (a religious group). There was a campground advertised in Tzaneen at the main hotel, but it was closed and we were directed out of town (had trouble finding the right road) to Camp David (through a farmers field) at Olcalaco. Birding was good in the campground.
We had 2 more stops before we get to Kruger National Park. First do Adventura Blyde Canyon. What a canyon area!. Huge sculptured rocks, deep canyons, rivers and waterfalls. As we travelled we stopped at all the viewpoints and rest stops. Each one was beautiful, and each had vendors selling tablecloths, animal carvings and all tourist souvenirs. We did buy a few small things especially the tablecloths. Had difficulty finding a campground in Hazyview. Here we encountered our first security problem. After grocery shopping in Hazyview we were putting things away inside the vehicle when a long arm reached in and had ahold of Irene's purse. She screamed and he let go of it. The security women were right there dealing with the young men. The women carry long hardwood sticks which they use to enforce the law.
Our last week is spent driving the length of Kruger National Park, which afforded many animal sightings. The weather started out very hot in the south 40'C every day but became more pleasant as we drove north. It was extremely dry and the water holes were starting to dry up. One large campground (Shingwedze) was on the verge of closing as the wells had run dry. We stayed at a different site every night, and in one case took a cabin. We had reserved and paid for all the campsites before leaving home via the Internet. We had heard of people not being able to get into Kruger as they were completely booked and we did not wish that to happen as this is a very special place. The camps we went to were Crocodile Bridge, Lower Sabie, Satara, Letaba, Shingwidzi and Punda Maria. All the campsites here were without any grass, dusty and poorly maintained. The bathrooms were very clean and well kept. We saw “the big 5” elephant, rhino, giraffe, hippo and lion. Our view of the lions was not great, but we did see them. The main road was excellent, but some of the side gravel roads were very rough.
From Punda Maria camp in the north we left for Ben Lavin Nature Reserve. The route took us by a “Homeland” settlement that went on for miles and miles. Our next day was a long drive to Mar-Leo Camp, Roodeplaat Dam. A pretty spot beside a lake, but the camp buildings were mediocre. We were just north of Johannesburg so our final days drive was not long. After dealing with all the traffic on the outskirts of the city and returning the vehicle we settled into the Klip-Els B & B for our last night in South Africa.
It had been a good trip, we saw lots of everything. We saw 340 species of birds and almost all of these were first time sightings. This was all quite exciting – the first was just as beautiful as the last one we saw. The roads and infrastructure of South Africa is excellent, and this includes the condition of the roads and the sign-age. We did buy bottled water for drinking but the water systems were good where ever we went. We are glad we made this trip before there are drastic changes in this country. There still is unrest and the insecurity about the future for the Afrikaners.
Our return flight was about 17 hours with a stop in Cape Verde for refuelling and then a plane change in Atlanta. Our advise is never do this – being in transit and having to land in the USA you are required to clear Customs as if you were staying and then go through security again to board your flight to Canada. You are asked what is the reason for your visit and it is only to catch the flight to Toronto. It is a long gruelling process and we have vowed NEVER to transit through the USA again.
2004 Japan
JAPAN Nov. 15-22, 2004
Our trip to Australia was on Japan Airlines and since we had a stop over in Tokyo we were excited to take advantage of this and plan for one week of sight-seeing in Japan.
After having a camping trip to Australia and seeing nature in the raw this would be the exact opposite. We arrived at the huge Tokyo airport in the evening and were met by Chris' friend, Tatjana, who lives there with her family. It was a long drive back to Tokyo and we did have some difficulty locating the Hotel in the Ginza district. Tatjana even had printed a map and a GPS, but with one-way streets and back lanes it was still difficult. Since she speaks Japanese a couple of taxi drivers were consulted.
We checked into our comfortable room for our one night in Tokyo as we prepared for our tour to start the next morning at 8 am. A bus picked us up at our Hotel and took us to a central tourist bus station where we joined the tour for our 3 day trip to Mt. Fiji, Hakone, Kyoto and Nara. The land arrangements were handled by JTB (Japanese Travel Bureau) and every guide was there to meet and take us on every tour. It all worked like clockwork.
We saw Mt. Fuji in all its glory! Actually we saw it for 2 days and it was awesome. At the 5th station (this is the end of the road and you must climb from there) the temperature was only 5'c with a wind. The trees reminded me of the northern Arctic. There are shops so it is commercialized. After a Japanese style lunch (delicious) and served in a covered lacquered box, we would experience the lake district and stay in a hotel in the hot springs area of Hakone. Almost all of the tourists at the Hotel were Japanese as foreigners make up only about 3% of the travelers. We were tired in the evening and decided to go to the local 24hour convenience store for some sandwiches and such. We also bought the makings for breakfast in our room as all hotels supply a hot pot to make tea and have a small fridge.
We now will experience our first bullet train to Kyoto – called the Shinkansen. We drove through rice paddies, one city after another, mountains, tunnels, bridges and another view of Mt. Fuji. One tunnel was 8km long which we went through in 3 minutes. The train was very quiet, smooth and very clean.
We had 2 nights in Kyoto with one day viewing the Shrines and historical buildings and the final day for a trip to Nara. Nara is a World Heritage Sight but our view was a little disappointing as we had a heavy downpour. There were dozens of buses there and one small group of uniformed school children approached us and spoke a few words of English. The teacher came and said they were studying English and they had never met a non-Japanese before. We were thrilled to talk to them and, of course, we took their picture.
On our own we did a walking tour of the Gion District where the Geisha girls and the Theatre of Japanese opera is performed daily.
We again boarded the Shinkansen for the return to Tokyo. It is 500 km with 3 stops and in 2hrs and 40 minutes. I could not focus on the birds that I saw passing by our window. We arrived at our original hotel again and left the next morning for Nikko. It was a full day of driving and touring the area. This again is another World Heritage Site. Very colorful Temples, Pagodas and carvings including the original “See no evil, Speak no evil and Hear no evil”. From there we proceeded up a very steep mountain with about 20 switchbacks each way. Tall pines covered the mountains. At the top we again enjoyed the Japanese lunch by a large mountain lake. This is a recreational area. Many of the boats were colorfully made like ducks and swans. The lake flowed out at a high waterfall. We arrived back into Tokyo well after dark where we took a taxi to the Grand Hyatt, where Tatjana met us. Her husband,Xavier, is the Manager of the Hotel and they and there two children live 5 min away by foot. We were invited to stay with them for 2 nights before returning to Canada. We were made very welcome and were invited and enjoyed two beautiful lunches at the hotel. One in the French Restaurant and the other in the Japanese Restaurant, where the servers were dressed in traditional Japanese Kimono.
In our travels to the different Japan locations we passed through many areas of Tokyo – passed the river with shipping and tourist boats, dozens of baseball diamonds by the river banks, one skyscraper after another, beautiful shopping plazas, Emperors Palaces, Government offices and shoppers everywhere. Since we had a general view of the city, Tatjana took us to the world famous Fish Market, the Tokyo Tower and Art Gallery. The vista of 360' of Tokyo was breathtaking.
Our flight home was swift and took only 7 ½ hours instead of 9 hours due to tail winds. At one point we were cruising at about 1250 kmh ground speed.
We arrived in Vancouver and was met by our cheerful Brother-in-law, George. After many family gathering - including Chris' 70th birthday we left for points south.
2004 View of Australia
AUSTRALIA – DOWN UNDER BUT ALSO DIFFERENT!!
Observations:
1.There is virtually no graffiti – North American culture has not extended to this art form.
2.Toilets have full or half flush handle settings.
3.Sunrises in the east and at noon it goes north and sets in the west. Very disconcerting for orientation.
4.Wombats, Kangaroos, Wallabys, Koalas. Which of them make good sausages? You are correct it is Kangaroo. In the supermarkets meat department there is a section beside the other meats for Kanga meat. Very popular are the so called Kanga Bangers for frying or barbies.
5.Water swirls counter-clockwise.
6.No pennies exist – the smallest currency is 5 cents. We could learn from that.
7.Way south on Phillips Island there is this unbelievable phenomenon. At precisely 5 minutes after sunset on the storm swept really cold beach and very rough sea all of a sudden in groups of 15 or 20 or more of Little Penguins appear in front of you out of the water and slowly waddle past amazed spectators into the low brush to their burrows. Unafraid of humans they will come within less than a meter of the people. This scene takes place every day of the year. The penguins go to the sea in the morning, not one seems to be left behind (except when nesting) – they swim out up to 20 km to hunt and return when it becomes too dark.
8.Wilson's Promontory is the most southern of mainland Australia. It protrudes out quite a distance out into the sea and at one time was the connection with what is Tasmania. High green mountains, beautiful scenery, yellow sand beaches and rugged coastline
Here are some of the posted signs that we saw:
Traffic signs:
1.If you drink and drive you're a bloody idiot!
2.Don't sleep and drive.
3.Long time dead – so what's the hurry!
4.Yawning? A micro sleep can kill!
5.Drowsy drivers die
Numerous designated rest stops are located along all highways.
Sheilas and Blokes do not pee crap or spew around the trees only in the compost Loo or your own tent.
Other important signs:
1.No pet allowed of any kind in National Parks – no exceptions. (Also applies to many private campgrounds.)
2.Sign in grocery stores – Under 18 drinking - $500, using someone else's ID - $500
We went on a few hikes and saw two large snakes over a meter long. One was the infamous Tiger Snake, which can be very aggressive. One lady, who experiences an attack, described it as like a bicycle tire rolling towards her at amazing speed.
Australia has some wonderful little towns with well under 5,000 people that were founded around 1900. All well kept with street made into pedestrian malls, sidewalk cafes, restaurants and stores etc. Very English with little North American influence. Australia is a wonderful place to live and visit and in our opinion will become more attractive in the world while we believe the Americas are going the other way. The people were very friendly and helpful. They were willing to give loads of information of where to travel and what to enjoy in their country.
Two months driving through Australia gives you only a small taste of that large country. One of the most spectacular roads in the world is the Great Ocean Road along the coast west of Melbourne. Unbelievable, colorful, rugged rock formations fighting against an onslaught of wild wave action of blue and green water. Blow holes, white ocean spray 10 to 20 meters high, the noise of wind, gulls, cormorants and other birds. It it a 2 day trip for most people and a must if you are near Melbourne. There is a ferry service that connects the highways that lets you bypass Melbourne about 50 km south you avoid the heavy traffic which to use out weighed the attraction of the large city.
Our last few days were again spent in Sydney where we stayed at the Philip Street Travelodge. Our room was equipped with a small kitchen and this made it very convenient. We again enjoyed to see the historical and grand buildings of the downtown area. The hotel was close to the Botanical Gardens, the Opera House, the Quay and Darling Harbour.
We enjoyed the use of a campervan as it allowed us the freedom to stay in town and as well the natural surroundings of State Parks. The weather varied from hot in the Brisbane area to cold and windy on the south coast. We had rain and storms for only a few days and the rest were sunny. The 2 months of travel went by very fast. If we visit again we would like to see Western Australia.
Observations:
1.There is virtually no graffiti – North American culture has not extended to this art form.
2.Toilets have full or half flush handle settings.
3.Sunrises in the east and at noon it goes north and sets in the west. Very disconcerting for orientation.
4.Wombats, Kangaroos, Wallabys, Koalas. Which of them make good sausages? You are correct it is Kangaroo. In the supermarkets meat department there is a section beside the other meats for Kanga meat. Very popular are the so called Kanga Bangers for frying or barbies.
5.Water swirls counter-clockwise.
6.No pennies exist – the smallest currency is 5 cents. We could learn from that.
7.Way south on Phillips Island there is this unbelievable phenomenon. At precisely 5 minutes after sunset on the storm swept really cold beach and very rough sea all of a sudden in groups of 15 or 20 or more of Little Penguins appear in front of you out of the water and slowly waddle past amazed spectators into the low brush to their burrows. Unafraid of humans they will come within less than a meter of the people. This scene takes place every day of the year. The penguins go to the sea in the morning, not one seems to be left behind (except when nesting) – they swim out up to 20 km to hunt and return when it becomes too dark.
8.Wilson's Promontory is the most southern of mainland Australia. It protrudes out quite a distance out into the sea and at one time was the connection with what is Tasmania. High green mountains, beautiful scenery, yellow sand beaches and rugged coastline
Here are some of the posted signs that we saw:
Traffic signs:
1.If you drink and drive you're a bloody idiot!
2.Don't sleep and drive.
3.Long time dead – so what's the hurry!
4.Yawning? A micro sleep can kill!
5.Drowsy drivers die
Numerous designated rest stops are located along all highways.
Sheilas and Blokes do not pee crap or spew around the trees only in the compost Loo or your own tent.
Other important signs:
1.No pet allowed of any kind in National Parks – no exceptions. (Also applies to many private campgrounds.)
2.Sign in grocery stores – Under 18 drinking - $500, using someone else's ID - $500
We went on a few hikes and saw two large snakes over a meter long. One was the infamous Tiger Snake, which can be very aggressive. One lady, who experiences an attack, described it as like a bicycle tire rolling towards her at amazing speed.
Australia has some wonderful little towns with well under 5,000 people that were founded around 1900. All well kept with street made into pedestrian malls, sidewalk cafes, restaurants and stores etc. Very English with little North American influence. Australia is a wonderful place to live and visit and in our opinion will become more attractive in the world while we believe the Americas are going the other way. The people were very friendly and helpful. They were willing to give loads of information of where to travel and what to enjoy in their country.
Two months driving through Australia gives you only a small taste of that large country. One of the most spectacular roads in the world is the Great Ocean Road along the coast west of Melbourne. Unbelievable, colorful, rugged rock formations fighting against an onslaught of wild wave action of blue and green water. Blow holes, white ocean spray 10 to 20 meters high, the noise of wind, gulls, cormorants and other birds. It it a 2 day trip for most people and a must if you are near Melbourne. There is a ferry service that connects the highways that lets you bypass Melbourne about 50 km south you avoid the heavy traffic which to use out weighed the attraction of the large city.
Our last few days were again spent in Sydney where we stayed at the Philip Street Travelodge. Our room was equipped with a small kitchen and this made it very convenient. We again enjoyed to see the historical and grand buildings of the downtown area. The hotel was close to the Botanical Gardens, the Opera House, the Quay and Darling Harbour.
We enjoyed the use of a campervan as it allowed us the freedom to stay in town and as well the natural surroundings of State Parks. The weather varied from hot in the Brisbane area to cold and windy on the south coast. We had rain and storms for only a few days and the rest were sunny. The 2 months of travel went by very fast. If we visit again we would like to see Western Australia.
After spending almost two week travelling to Vancouver and visiting with relatives we are now in Sydney. Japan Airlines via Tokyo was smooth without any problems.
Sydney is a beautiful city with many historical and modern buildings. It is exceptionally clean and the people are very friendly. We are staying in the downtown area and we are walking everywhere. We have taken the Monorail around the harbour area. Yesterday we took in the Opera "The Marriage of Figaro" at the Sydney Opera House. The building is quite spectacular! Tuesday we pick up our van camper only a few blocks from our hotel
(Philip Street Travelodge).
Our camper rate is $49.95/day with insurance and is almost 1/3 the price of some of the quotes we received on the Internet and Travel agents. With our sightseeing I have seen 16 new birds. Some quite brilliant and very different from ours. We are fine and so far jet lag has not been much of a problem.
Bye for now Irene and Chris
............................
Sept 28, 2004 Hi Everyone The story goes that a man went to his travel agent to inquire about a driving trip to beautiful Australia - land of sunshine beaches and Kangaroos. "Very good choice" said the agent, "but they drive on the left". "Let me think about it" said the man, "I will call you tomorrow" The next day he called and cancelled the trip. He said "I tried this driving on the left and did not like it".
We picked up our camper - a Toyoto the size of a VW about a week ago - travelling north from Sydney. Driving on the left is one thing but why do they have the turn signal lever on the right and the one for the windshield wipers on the left? Every time you turn a corner you turn the wipers on. Should have a word with Toyota.
We drove about 3 hours per day and usually stayed in National Parks overnight. A little bit of rain but mostly sunshine. Great changes in scenery from hilly country along rivers, lakes to rock formations. Good hiking, 90 new lifers (birds) for Irene so far. Parks do not allow pets of any kind, no picking of firewood off the ground . Firewood provided in some locations. Fees from $3 per person plus $3 for making a fire in primitive campsites. Met many friendly and helpful Aussies, some birders, but very few foreigners. The only shortwave signals in English that we have been able to receive so far are from the USA. "Voice of America" and a few American christian stations - the same type that we get in Mexico. We can get German and Dutch but no CBC. CBC broadcasts in a dozen languages all over the world but does not seem to be heard in Australia.
We are halfway up to Brisbane inland above a gorge and waterfall in a wooded park with mostly eucalyptus type trees. Irene did some laundry today. We have a clothesline strung between two trees and over the campter. Have seen different species of Wallabys and Kangaroos, and one wild dog called a Dingo. I don't think they call female dogs Dinga.
Here is a list of our overnight stops Myall River Camp Crowdy Bay National Park Dorrigo Cathedral Rocks National Park Oxley River National Park For all of you heading south - we wish you a safe trip.
Sydney is a beautiful city with many historical and modern buildings. It is exceptionally clean and the people are very friendly. We are staying in the downtown area and we are walking everywhere. We have taken the Monorail around the harbour area. Yesterday we took in the Opera "The Marriage of Figaro" at the Sydney Opera House. The building is quite spectacular! Tuesday we pick up our van camper only a few blocks from our hotel
(Philip Street Travelodge).
Our camper rate is $49.95/day with insurance and is almost 1/3 the price of some of the quotes we received on the Internet and Travel agents. With our sightseeing I have seen 16 new birds. Some quite brilliant and very different from ours. We are fine and so far jet lag has not been much of a problem.
Bye for now Irene and Chris
............................
Sept 28, 2004 Hi Everyone The story goes that a man went to his travel agent to inquire about a driving trip to beautiful Australia - land of sunshine beaches and Kangaroos. "Very good choice" said the agent, "but they drive on the left". "Let me think about it" said the man, "I will call you tomorrow" The next day he called and cancelled the trip. He said "I tried this driving on the left and did not like it".
We picked up our camper - a Toyoto the size of a VW about a week ago - travelling north from Sydney. Driving on the left is one thing but why do they have the turn signal lever on the right and the one for the windshield wipers on the left? Every time you turn a corner you turn the wipers on. Should have a word with Toyota.
We drove about 3 hours per day and usually stayed in National Parks overnight. A little bit of rain but mostly sunshine. Great changes in scenery from hilly country along rivers, lakes to rock formations. Good hiking, 90 new lifers (birds) for Irene so far. Parks do not allow pets of any kind, no picking of firewood off the ground . Firewood provided in some locations. Fees from $3 per person plus $3 for making a fire in primitive campsites. Met many friendly and helpful Aussies, some birders, but very few foreigners. The only shortwave signals in English that we have been able to receive so far are from the USA. "Voice of America" and a few American christian stations - the same type that we get in Mexico. We can get German and Dutch but no CBC. CBC broadcasts in a dozen languages all over the world but does not seem to be heard in Australia.
We are halfway up to Brisbane inland above a gorge and waterfall in a wooded park with mostly eucalyptus type trees. Irene did some laundry today. We have a clothesline strung between two trees and over the campter. Have seen different species of Wallabys and Kangaroos, and one wild dog called a Dingo. I don't think they call female dogs Dinga.
Here is a list of our overnight stops Myall River Camp Crowdy Bay National Park Dorrigo Cathedral Rocks National Park Oxley River National Park For all of you heading south - we wish you a safe trip.
2004 Alamos, San Blas, Durango, Texas and Home
Fall 2003 – April, 2004
Alamos, Teacapan, La Laguna Sta Maria del Oro, San Blas, Teacapan, Durango, Texas
We were at the Acosta Trailer Park enjoying the beautiful town of Alamos in the foothills of the Copper Canyon mountains, the Sierra Madre when on Dec. 8 Chris came down with severe chills, high fever, bone and muscle aches and eventually a red rash and itching. The classic symptoms of Dengue fever which was then diagnosed and confirmed by the Doctor and blood test. Recovery is a long uphill struggle. We decided to stay in Alamos and take it easy. It was some time before Chris was able to walk into town about 1 km away.
We made the best of it and enjoyed the Company of other visitors in the park plus many of our friends in town. Again a superb Christmas dinner at the Thompson's. Joanie and Doug are wonderful cooks and gracious hosts. This dinner has become a tradition for us sine 1994.
On January 17 we bid good-bye to Alamos and took the 2 day drive south to Teacapan -about 100 km south of Mazatlan and located on a 30 km peninsula. Our home was Isla Paraiso, a small Palm treed, beach front trailer park attached to a Villa and Condo resort with pools and a tennis court. Chris felt better but still had headaches. We did bike and walk the beach. Most of our fellow campers, less than a dozen rigs, were Canadians.
January 29 We left Teacapan. It is a short 4 hour drive inland via Tepic to La Laguna. We stayed at Koala Motel and Trailer Par where our friend, Ben, has a permanent trailer.
This once beautiful Resort is going downhill fast, a real disaster, dirty, no management, no noise control, days without water. We give it maybe 2 more years. The Laguna is in a beautiful setting. A crater lake being built up by irresponsible new developments – houses with insufficient sewer systems, with runoffs into the lake. Lake water is pumped into the houses and trailer park and used for watering, showers and utilities except drinking. If and when we return to La Laguna we will not be staying in the Koala Trailer Park.
March 8 we left La Laguna for La Noria at the 5000' level. Rancho La Noria is about 12 km from Tepic in the Sierra de San Juan. There are 4 small campsites with shelters and electric, wood fired hot water for showers and water. Several trails and lookout posts are around the Ranch at spectacular areas with views of canyons. Birding is very good in the area. Ben joined us in his VW camper on this part of our trip and we always enjoy his company and the afternoon “Coffee Especial” break.
March 18 we continued back down the mountain and to the coast at Playa Amor and then San Blas. It always is an enjoyable Sunday evening on the Plaza with lots of children, families – young and old, young people, music, balloon and Huichal articles for purchase.
After a return visit to Teacapan we heard that temperatures were very hot in Sonora and the mosquitoes were returning so we made a drastic change of plans. We had never driven the “Devil's Backbone” to Durango and this was our chance. We made two overnight stops on the way with excellent birding at Barranca el Leibre. It is a spectacular drive but you do need to take your time. There is many 18 wheelers and buses on the route but also many areas where you can pull off and marvel at the rugged mountains and canyons.
We continued on to the States and did not have too much difficulty at the Border, but the sniffer dogs were taken all around our rig. The Officers were pleasant and we could stay in the area, not like other reports we had heard of . We had a great stay in Big Bend National Park – at the Chisos Campground and a primitive site at Painted Gap. Both sites have spectacular scenery but the primitive site is very secluded, remote, quiet, and the stars were very bright with no city lights to defuse them. We soaked in the scenery and the beauty.
As we worked our way to Winnipeg, we had stops at Muleshoe Wildlife Refuge, Perryton, Texas and Stromsburg, Nebraska among others. The weather in mid April in the Dakotas was nasty but we made the best of it. We are now preparing our rig and such for the odd adventure this summer and an early departure for Vancouver in September. We will leave our camper in Vancouver and fly to Australia and Japan for 2 months.
Life is an adventure and it is great to be able to enjoy it.
Alamos, Teacapan, La Laguna Sta Maria del Oro, San Blas, Teacapan, Durango, Texas
We were at the Acosta Trailer Park enjoying the beautiful town of Alamos in the foothills of the Copper Canyon mountains, the Sierra Madre when on Dec. 8 Chris came down with severe chills, high fever, bone and muscle aches and eventually a red rash and itching. The classic symptoms of Dengue fever which was then diagnosed and confirmed by the Doctor and blood test. Recovery is a long uphill struggle. We decided to stay in Alamos and take it easy. It was some time before Chris was able to walk into town about 1 km away.
We made the best of it and enjoyed the Company of other visitors in the park plus many of our friends in town. Again a superb Christmas dinner at the Thompson's. Joanie and Doug are wonderful cooks and gracious hosts. This dinner has become a tradition for us sine 1994.
On January 17 we bid good-bye to Alamos and took the 2 day drive south to Teacapan -about 100 km south of Mazatlan and located on a 30 km peninsula. Our home was Isla Paraiso, a small Palm treed, beach front trailer park attached to a Villa and Condo resort with pools and a tennis court. Chris felt better but still had headaches. We did bike and walk the beach. Most of our fellow campers, less than a dozen rigs, were Canadians.
January 29 We left Teacapan. It is a short 4 hour drive inland via Tepic to La Laguna. We stayed at Koala Motel and Trailer Par where our friend, Ben, has a permanent trailer.
This once beautiful Resort is going downhill fast, a real disaster, dirty, no management, no noise control, days without water. We give it maybe 2 more years. The Laguna is in a beautiful setting. A crater lake being built up by irresponsible new developments – houses with insufficient sewer systems, with runoffs into the lake. Lake water is pumped into the houses and trailer park and used for watering, showers and utilities except drinking. If and when we return to La Laguna we will not be staying in the Koala Trailer Park.
March 8 we left La Laguna for La Noria at the 5000' level. Rancho La Noria is about 12 km from Tepic in the Sierra de San Juan. There are 4 small campsites with shelters and electric, wood fired hot water for showers and water. Several trails and lookout posts are around the Ranch at spectacular areas with views of canyons. Birding is very good in the area. Ben joined us in his VW camper on this part of our trip and we always enjoy his company and the afternoon “Coffee Especial” break.
March 18 we continued back down the mountain and to the coast at Playa Amor and then San Blas. It always is an enjoyable Sunday evening on the Plaza with lots of children, families – young and old, young people, music, balloon and Huichal articles for purchase.
After a return visit to Teacapan we heard that temperatures were very hot in Sonora and the mosquitoes were returning so we made a drastic change of plans. We had never driven the “Devil's Backbone” to Durango and this was our chance. We made two overnight stops on the way with excellent birding at Barranca el Leibre. It is a spectacular drive but you do need to take your time. There is many 18 wheelers and buses on the route but also many areas where you can pull off and marvel at the rugged mountains and canyons.
We continued on to the States and did not have too much difficulty at the Border, but the sniffer dogs were taken all around our rig. The Officers were pleasant and we could stay in the area, not like other reports we had heard of . We had a great stay in Big Bend National Park – at the Chisos Campground and a primitive site at Painted Gap. Both sites have spectacular scenery but the primitive site is very secluded, remote, quiet, and the stars were very bright with no city lights to defuse them. We soaked in the scenery and the beauty.
As we worked our way to Winnipeg, we had stops at Muleshoe Wildlife Refuge, Perryton, Texas and Stromsburg, Nebraska among others. The weather in mid April in the Dakotas was nasty but we made the best of it. We are now preparing our rig and such for the odd adventure this summer and an early departure for Vancouver in September. We will leave our camper in Vancouver and fly to Australia and Japan for 2 months.
Life is an adventure and it is great to be able to enjoy it.
2003 Dengue Fever, Alamos, Mexico
Just wanted to keep you informed of where we are and what we are doing. At this point we are not doing much at all as Chris contracted Dengue fever. We thought it was the regular flu as he did not have a high temperature, but his bones ached and he had a low fever. He started getting a rash and then we knew it was probably Dengue so we visited the Dr. and then the pharmacy for electrolits, medicine etc. We knew that it was pandemic here in the State of Sonora and Sinaloa, but since the temperatures are now cooler it should be on the decrease. Here in Alamos it seems that every family has been infected and some children have died from it. Chris' temperature was not high because he has always been taking calcium and zinc, but we made one mistake and that was he took Asprin for the fever and headache and that can cause bleeding. It should have only been tylenol. Learn something every day! There is a lot of information available about Dengue fever on the Internet. It is a malaria virus and it does take some time to get your energy back to normal.
We will be staying here in Alamos until we are certain everything is fine and we have the urge to move on. We are very comfortable here, have many friends, Doctors, and a small town where we can buy everything we need. The weather is great with clear, blue, sunny skies and temperatures between 26 and 30 C every day. The nights drop down to between 6 and 10'C.
Up to the time of Dengue we had been playing tennis 3 times a week with our friend, Jinny Combs, biking out to see the Thompsons, walking the arroyos birding. Now it is reading and taking life easy.
We will be staying here in Alamos until we are certain everything is fine and we have the urge to move on. We are very comfortable here, have many friends, Doctors, and a small town where we can buy everything we need. The weather is great with clear, blue, sunny skies and temperatures between 26 and 30 C every day. The nights drop down to between 6 and 10'C.
Up to the time of Dengue we had been playing tennis 3 times a week with our friend, Jinny Combs, biking out to see the Thompsons, walking the arroyos birding. Now it is reading and taking life easy.
2003 - Alamos, Mexico
Stolen Private Plane buzzes the old colonial town of Alamos in Sonora, Mexico
November 22, 2003
A loud roar of increasing force wakes us from sleep at 5 am. A plane taking off from the runway 50 meters from our friends, Joanie and Doug’s. We are presently staying in a shady spot behind their home. What a time to take off when it is still dark outside!
Apparently 23 private planes of all sizes and shapes are parked by the runway about 1 ½ km down. The pilots and passengers are here on the invite of the owners of the luxury hotel “Los Santos” for a special event.
In the evening while sitting on Plaza Alamada having beer and tacos at Fortino’s Beef Taco stand our friend, Jim Toews, tells us: “Have you heard the latest? A plane was stolen this morning after the airport manager was tied up at gunpoint. The thieves will use this perfectly suited plane for a drug run to the US about 500 km away and then wreck the plane somewhere. Before taking off towards the East over the mountains the thieves buzzed the town and the hotel 3 times for a final Adios.” There is always something going in this historical colonial town of about 10,000.
Horses in the street, weddings, 15th birthday parties (coming-out parties) at the church and other sites, bands and speakers going well into the night. Today is Sunday and we will go and eat a fish taco at the Sunday Market in the arroyo. We will be staying at Rancho Acosta Trailer Park for about 2 weeks.
We arrived in Alamos 3 days ago from “Old” Kino Bay on the Sea of Cortez. Our campsite was 15 m from the beach with a clear view of the bay, which is framed by Rocky Mountains. Right in the middle of the Bay is a peaked island about 200 meters high looking somewhat like the upper tip of an alpine peak. We had 7 days of watching sunrises and sunsets. At least 4 fishermen’s trucks stopped everyday to sell fresh fish, shrimp, scallops and clams.we had our share.We filled our freezer . Kino is the shrimpcapital of Mexico ,they say.Our bicycles were very useful here. The Estuary is about 4 km to the east. Oyster beds, mangroves and shallow water create perfect conditions for bird life.
We actually left Winnipeg on the 18th of October taking our old established route with one night stops in Arlington, South Dakota; Stromsburg, Nebraska (“Sweden Capital”); Concordia, Kansas; Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife Refuge (no water in the ponds); Hoisington, Kansas, Perryton, Texas; Buffalo Lakes Wildlife Refuge (lakes completely dry), Texas; Alamogordo, New Mexico. After a stop in Deming, New Mexico, the first campground where we actually paid a fee, we primitive camped in the Cochise Stronghold National Forest. This is a mountain climbers heaven and we did our share of climbing and hiking. We stayed for 4 night until our water ran out. Our solar panels were sufficient for all electricity and computer. A week in Benson, Arizona at the Valley View Campground with full hook-ups (electric, water and sewer), hot showers and a good laundromat. (We did 5 loads of clothes). Wide open Arizona desert behind the campground - cactus, mesquite and rocks. Several dry washes (Arroyos) make perfect trails in the hills.
After a 3 hour drive, first on Interstate 10 and then going south on Hwy 83 turning onto the 30 km gravel road over Box Canyon we arrived at Madera Canyon. We stopped at our favorite primitive camp spot on Proctor Road, 2 km below the Canyon. My sister, Maria, and her husband, George, had reservations at the Santa Rita Lodge 2 days after our arrival. After meeting them at the Lodge we took them back to our camper for drinks and dinner and to watch the Tucson and Green Valley lights after dark . The next day George and Maria came back to us for pancake breakfast and then left for Phoenix in their rental car to catch a flight back to Vancouver,Canada .
The next day we continued to Nogales on the border, bought our Mexican Insurance and over nighted at the Insurance Company parking lot. We crossed the border and were through the Mexican Customs and Immigration by 9:30 and arrived in Kino Bay at 3 pm. We are still travelling in our Kodiak truck camper and have clocked almost 2000 nights in it. It is our moveable cottage.
2003 Europe - Holland, Scandinavia and Germany
We are booked on Air Canada to Amsterdam were we will pick up a car and travel via Northern Denmark and ferry to Kristiansand in Norway. We plan to see some of the beautiful scenery, Fjords and old Stave Churches. We will visit the area where Irene’s relatives two generations back immigrated from.
We will travel on to Sweden and parts of Eastern Germany where Chris lived in 1945 after he and part of his family were expelled from their home by the Czech Communists. Around August 15 we should be in Munich to visit Chris’s childhood friend, Jutta.
Langenneufnach, Bad Peterstal and Gernsbach round out the trip to visit Chris’s only relatives in Europe. Proud members of Weigl clan, Christian, Walter and Hannemi as well as our friend Ilse Gahn.
A month in Europe is unfortunately not very long. Our return flight leaves Amsterdam on August 26th.
July 28 to August 26, 2003
We picked up a VW Polo in Amsterdam with the intention of driving north to the Lauersee, a birding area for viewing European shore birds. Driving out of a larger European city requires courage, nerves of steel and optimism. We found out that a compass did not work in our case because the needle inside the car always had us going south - a time consuming mistake.
Beside packing all conventional things for an European trip including more than one credit card we had sleeping bags and a tent.
On our firsts night the tent came in handy as all cabins in this remote nature area were completely booked. We carried on the next day to Northern Germany crossing the Elbe River on a ferry. Our overnight was a quite luxurious first floor in a beautiful house, lovely bedroom with TV, a huge modern bathroom and a delicious large breakfast in the morning.
Our Inn in Denmark did not serve breakfast until 9 a.m. so we left without at 7:30 to try to make the ferry from Hirtshals to Kristiansand in Norway.
We arrived at our first overnight in Norway in the Sedetal in the early afternoon. Beautiful lake, cozy cabin. Our unpacking was interrupted by a heavy shower and we locked our keys inside the car. The expert who came from 20 km away to unlock the car accidentally shattered our window. He towed our car to his facility in the next town and supplied us with a replacement car for four days. We travelled around the beautiful southern, mountainous Norway including several Fjords including one that shimmered dark blue as we viewed the sight from about 900 meters above.
After visiting Oslo we saw beautiful old wooden buildings including a Stave Church that was several hundred years old, we climbed to the top of the world famous Ski jump at Holmenkolen for a fantastic view of Oslo.
About 80 km east of Oslo we visited the area where Irene’s mother’s ancestors came from. Third cousins from Washington who spent several months in Orje working on the family genealogy which they have now traced back 4 centuries welcomed us to their home. A work of love that has taken 10 years to document. We had the priviledge of spending an evening with them. The next morning we had the directions to see and visit the old beautifully kept graveyard, chatted with local church members and saw the farm where Irene’s mother’s relatives originated.
The next day we tented near the ocean south of Gotheborg. A short visit to Lund and Falsterbo then over the new bridge to Denmark. Bypassing Copenhagen we spent the night in a small cozy cabin in Guldborg.
A beautiful ferry from Rodby to Puttgarten. Modern with 3 dining rooms, freshly prepared Danish pastries, excellent coffee and duty free shopping. All available during a 45 min crossing. This makes the Canadian and American ferries operating between B.C. and Washington look like very poor cousins.
Wolfenbuttel and Goslar are perfectly preserved towns in Germany with picturesque half-timbered houses and historical buildings and churches.
Hohenwarte near Saalfeld is a small place located below a power dam in Turingia where Chris spent 6 months during 1945 and 46 together with his sister, Mother and Grandmother after being expelled from their home by the Communists. Hartmut, who was 8 years old at the time is now in charge of the family owned Hotel and Restaurant. He remembered Chris with great emotion and we stayed the night and reminisced about those dark days after the war.
Landshut is a beautiful old town north of Munich. After too short a visit our next destination was Munich. We spent 4 days at Jutta Schlerets quiet, gorgeous apartment. Sightseeing, beer gardens and a day with my school friend, Rainer Wallraf, are some of the highlights.
Short visit in Langneufnach and Bad Peterstal to visit Chris’ cousins, Christian and Walter and their families.
One day in the old French town of Saverne, then 2 night in Piesport on the Mosel River. In Grach we went to see Pauly Vinery and chatted with the present owner, the grandson of the man who supplied wines by the container to my Grandparents before the end of the WWII. Green vineyards, some dating back to the Romans and old Castles line this scenic river on both sides. Our last 3 night were spent in Breukelen, Holland. Only minutes by train from Amsterdam we revisited some of the places we enjoyed more than 25 years ago.
Irene identified over 70 new species of birds. We tented 3 times, stayed in huts, hotels, Inns and B&B’s, without any reservations, and a few days with friends for a total of 28 days.
Here are some other points worth mentioning:
1. Bicycle paths connect most towns just like auto routes. We could learn from this and implementing this in Canada could make biking much safer.
2. The limited access highways in Germany still have large sections with no speed limit. Our Polo comfortably did over 130 kph while others passed us constantly.
3. The use of Photo Radar is common everywhere - both for speed and traffic light control.
4. Driver’s discipline is markedly better than in Canada and the U.S.
5. Most everything is more expensive
6. Most cars look less that 5 years old
7. Trains, even commuters travel exceedingly fast, they break very quickly and stop at intermediate stations to allow the Intercity Express (ICC) to barrel through without slowing down. Timing is amazingly precise.
8. All Personal Watercraft (sea doos) are banned in Germany
9. All cell phone use is banned in Germany while driving.
All in all we had a great trip, travelled about 6,000km, stayed healthy, gained a few pounds and arrived home safely.
We will travel on to Sweden and parts of Eastern Germany where Chris lived in 1945 after he and part of his family were expelled from their home by the Czech Communists. Around August 15 we should be in Munich to visit Chris’s childhood friend, Jutta.
Langenneufnach, Bad Peterstal and Gernsbach round out the trip to visit Chris’s only relatives in Europe. Proud members of Weigl clan, Christian, Walter and Hannemi as well as our friend Ilse Gahn.
A month in Europe is unfortunately not very long. Our return flight leaves Amsterdam on August 26th.
July 28 to August 26, 2003
We picked up a VW Polo in Amsterdam with the intention of driving north to the Lauersee, a birding area for viewing European shore birds. Driving out of a larger European city requires courage, nerves of steel and optimism. We found out that a compass did not work in our case because the needle inside the car always had us going south - a time consuming mistake.
Beside packing all conventional things for an European trip including more than one credit card we had sleeping bags and a tent.
On our firsts night the tent came in handy as all cabins in this remote nature area were completely booked. We carried on the next day to Northern Germany crossing the Elbe River on a ferry. Our overnight was a quite luxurious first floor in a beautiful house, lovely bedroom with TV, a huge modern bathroom and a delicious large breakfast in the morning.
Our Inn in Denmark did not serve breakfast until 9 a.m. so we left without at 7:30 to try to make the ferry from Hirtshals to Kristiansand in Norway.
We arrived at our first overnight in Norway in the Sedetal in the early afternoon. Beautiful lake, cozy cabin. Our unpacking was interrupted by a heavy shower and we locked our keys inside the car. The expert who came from 20 km away to unlock the car accidentally shattered our window. He towed our car to his facility in the next town and supplied us with a replacement car for four days. We travelled around the beautiful southern, mountainous Norway including several Fjords including one that shimmered dark blue as we viewed the sight from about 900 meters above.
After visiting Oslo we saw beautiful old wooden buildings including a Stave Church that was several hundred years old, we climbed to the top of the world famous Ski jump at Holmenkolen for a fantastic view of Oslo.
About 80 km east of Oslo we visited the area where Irene’s mother’s ancestors came from. Third cousins from Washington who spent several months in Orje working on the family genealogy which they have now traced back 4 centuries welcomed us to their home. A work of love that has taken 10 years to document. We had the priviledge of spending an evening with them. The next morning we had the directions to see and visit the old beautifully kept graveyard, chatted with local church members and saw the farm where Irene’s mother’s relatives originated.
The next day we tented near the ocean south of Gotheborg. A short visit to Lund and Falsterbo then over the new bridge to Denmark. Bypassing Copenhagen we spent the night in a small cozy cabin in Guldborg.
A beautiful ferry from Rodby to Puttgarten. Modern with 3 dining rooms, freshly prepared Danish pastries, excellent coffee and duty free shopping. All available during a 45 min crossing. This makes the Canadian and American ferries operating between B.C. and Washington look like very poor cousins.
Wolfenbuttel and Goslar are perfectly preserved towns in Germany with picturesque half-timbered houses and historical buildings and churches.
Hohenwarte near Saalfeld is a small place located below a power dam in Turingia where Chris spent 6 months during 1945 and 46 together with his sister, Mother and Grandmother after being expelled from their home by the Communists. Hartmut, who was 8 years old at the time is now in charge of the family owned Hotel and Restaurant. He remembered Chris with great emotion and we stayed the night and reminisced about those dark days after the war.
Landshut is a beautiful old town north of Munich. After too short a visit our next destination was Munich. We spent 4 days at Jutta Schlerets quiet, gorgeous apartment. Sightseeing, beer gardens and a day with my school friend, Rainer Wallraf, are some of the highlights.
Short visit in Langneufnach and Bad Peterstal to visit Chris’ cousins, Christian and Walter and their families.
One day in the old French town of Saverne, then 2 night in Piesport on the Mosel River. In Grach we went to see Pauly Vinery and chatted with the present owner, the grandson of the man who supplied wines by the container to my Grandparents before the end of the WWII. Green vineyards, some dating back to the Romans and old Castles line this scenic river on both sides. Our last 3 night were spent in Breukelen, Holland. Only minutes by train from Amsterdam we revisited some of the places we enjoyed more than 25 years ago.
Irene identified over 70 new species of birds. We tented 3 times, stayed in huts, hotels, Inns and B&B’s, without any reservations, and a few days with friends for a total of 28 days.
Here are some other points worth mentioning:
1. Bicycle paths connect most towns just like auto routes. We could learn from this and implementing this in Canada could make biking much safer.
2. The limited access highways in Germany still have large sections with no speed limit. Our Polo comfortably did over 130 kph while others passed us constantly.
3. The use of Photo Radar is common everywhere - both for speed and traffic light control.
4. Driver’s discipline is markedly better than in Canada and the U.S.
5. Most everything is more expensive
6. Most cars look less that 5 years old
7. Trains, even commuters travel exceedingly fast, they break very quickly and stop at intermediate stations to allow the Intercity Express (ICC) to barrel through without slowing down. Timing is amazingly precise.
8. All Personal Watercraft (sea doos) are banned in Germany
9. All cell phone use is banned in Germany while driving.
All in all we had a great trip, travelled about 6,000km, stayed healthy, gained a few pounds and arrived home safely.
2003 Winnipeg to Quebec
May 10, 2003
We arrived home about 2 weeks ago. After a few weeks in Alamos, we visited Kino Bay, Mexico, Ruby Road, Sycamore Canyon and Madera Canyon in Arizona. On to Quartzite and Las Vegas. We had snow in the California mountain! We then travelled Hwy. 101 along the coast to Washington. We met Chris’ brother, Hans, and his partner, Amy in Washington. On the route home we visited with family in Vancouver, Cranbrook and Lethbridge. We had a very good trip on the return to Manitoba.
We always have many project when we arrived home and this year is no exception. Irene has been loading music onto our 20 gb MP3 player and we are also making plans for a European trip this summer.
Turn on your TV and watch “The Unauthorized Story of Three is Company” an NBC movie at 8 p.m. on Monday, May 12. See if you can find us as extras in the background. We stood right behind the actors at the cake flipping scene in evening dress and tuxedo. This was filmed in Winnipeg last fall. In total we had 4 costume changes for several scenes over 4 days of filming. Brian Dennehy is the main star in the TV movie about the hit TV show Three is Company with John Ritter and Susanne Sommers.
July 18, 2002
Today is +33 C (92'F) and the humidex is at +43' (108'F). This is Winnipeg in the summer. Air conditioners are really used in the cars and homes. This weather will continue for a few more days before we can expect some thunderstorms and cooling off.
We arrived back home the middle of April and since then we have taken a short trip to Saskatchewan and then a month long visit to Ontario and just into Quebec. The truck had quite a few kilometers on the motor so we figured it was time to have the motor rebuilt as the rest of the truck is in good shape. This neccessitated some travel in order to see if everything was in working order and the warranty was in effect. The truck preformed just fine and we enjoyed some great travel days. We visited with Ben Wassink in Chapeau, Quebec (also from La Laguna Sta Maria del Oro) and my son, Grant, and family in Orillia, Ontario. On our travel home we stopped in Cornell, Wisconsin to visit with Ralph and Helen Arneson (also from different areas in Mexico in the winter and long-time friends).
Our trip took us through the north route through Long Lac, and then Val d'Or, Quebec. We had some beautifull scenery and not much population so it was easy to camp on Crown Land or at "do-it-yourself" campsites. On the return trip the mosquitoes were out in full force but were a large and slower variety so they were easier to swat in the camper. Only a couple of nights were we bothered by no-see-ums. Since arriving home I have made special screens for the little ones as they are real pests at night. We were bothered much worse by them in Florida a few years ago so one never knows where you will encounter them but we will be prepared.
We arrived home about 2 weeks ago. After a few weeks in Alamos, we visited Kino Bay, Mexico, Ruby Road, Sycamore Canyon and Madera Canyon in Arizona. On to Quartzite and Las Vegas. We had snow in the California mountain! We then travelled Hwy. 101 along the coast to Washington. We met Chris’ brother, Hans, and his partner, Amy in Washington. On the route home we visited with family in Vancouver, Cranbrook and Lethbridge. We had a very good trip on the return to Manitoba.
We always have many project when we arrived home and this year is no exception. Irene has been loading music onto our 20 gb MP3 player and we are also making plans for a European trip this summer.
Turn on your TV and watch “The Unauthorized Story of Three is Company” an NBC movie at 8 p.m. on Monday, May 12. See if you can find us as extras in the background. We stood right behind the actors at the cake flipping scene in evening dress and tuxedo. This was filmed in Winnipeg last fall. In total we had 4 costume changes for several scenes over 4 days of filming. Brian Dennehy is the main star in the TV movie about the hit TV show Three is Company with John Ritter and Susanne Sommers.
July 18, 2002
Today is +33 C (92'F) and the humidex is at +43' (108'F). This is Winnipeg in the summer. Air conditioners are really used in the cars and homes. This weather will continue for a few more days before we can expect some thunderstorms and cooling off.
We arrived back home the middle of April and since then we have taken a short trip to Saskatchewan and then a month long visit to Ontario and just into Quebec. The truck had quite a few kilometers on the motor so we figured it was time to have the motor rebuilt as the rest of the truck is in good shape. This neccessitated some travel in order to see if everything was in working order and the warranty was in effect. The truck preformed just fine and we enjoyed some great travel days. We visited with Ben Wassink in Chapeau, Quebec (also from La Laguna Sta Maria del Oro) and my son, Grant, and family in Orillia, Ontario. On our travel home we stopped in Cornell, Wisconsin to visit with Ralph and Helen Arneson (also from different areas in Mexico in the winter and long-time friends).
Our trip took us through the north route through Long Lac, and then Val d'Or, Quebec. We had some beautifull scenery and not much population so it was easy to camp on Crown Land or at "do-it-yourself" campsites. On the return trip the mosquitoes were out in full force but were a large and slower variety so they were easier to swat in the camper. Only a couple of nights were we bothered by no-see-ums. Since arriving home I have made special screens for the little ones as they are real pests at night. We were bothered much worse by them in Florida a few years ago so one never knows where you will encounter them but we will be prepared.
2003 Palenque, Oaxaca, La Laguna and Alamos
January 8 to March 15, 2003
Irene mentioned the other day that we had spent a total of 1700 nights in our Kodiak camper. It sounds like a lot but it’s really only 4.7534 years.
We drove from Villahermosa to Palenque having decided that we would spend Christmas and New Years near the ruins of Palenque. “The ancient Mayan city with its superb jungle setting and exquisite architecture and decoration is one of the marvels of Mexico.” (page 894 Lonely Planet of Mexico). Mayabel had not changed a lot since the last time we were there in 1994. A cozy campground with a section of thatched roof palapas with hammocks for backpackers and spaces for RV’s some with hookups under the high jungle trees. An inviting swimming pool and a cozy small restaurant with almost nightly entertainment by very talented musicians. Guitars, drums and singing. The crowd was very international. People from every part of the Globe. Most stopped for 2 or 3 days. We stayed for 3 weeks. Great memories of the Howler monkeys growling like wild tigers, nice walks up to the Ruins and into the countryside, shopping trips to the village travelling by Colectivo and a 3 day trip by boat and bus into Guatemala to visit the “Manhattan of the Mayas”, Tikal. Temple number four has been called the Chrysler Building.
During the rainy Christmas days we had busloads of mostly inexperienced tenters from Mexico City, braving the weather despite of wet sleeping bags and many smoky campfires.
From Palenque to San Cristobal de las Casas is about 250 km. The bus takes 8 hours. It took us 2 day stopping Misol Ha, the magnificent waterfall. Water rushes over rocks surrounded by jungle trees straight down about 35 meters (100’) . The spray is so strong it hits spectators about 60-80 meters away. We walked down a steep trail with whet stone steps underneath and behind the falls. Quite an experience! Some people stood right next to the roaring water to have their picture taken.
Agua Azul was our next stop and overnight. These waterfalls are spread out over a distance of about 500 meters (1500’). Several cascades separated by rocks and vegetation finally join in a river with little islands. Ideal for swimming or kayaking. Simple kiosks and restaurants line the shore. Everything goes quiet at 6 pm. We overnighted right in front of the flowing waters and had a great sleep. A couple from Switzerland in a unique Nissan conversion camper and an American couple in a truck camper were parked along side us.
Palenque is almost at sea level, warm and humid, while our next destination San Cristobal is almost 2100 meters (7000’), dry, sunny and cold at night. A very scenic old town, native indios in colorful dress, interesting churches and buildings and in the hotbed of the Zapatista movement and the center of the Uprising of ‘94.
We carried on after 2 days. The road is over mountain ranges well over 2600 meters (8500’). Driving is slow and “curva peligrosa” (dangerous curves) signs are very frequent and “freno con motor” (break with motor) signs are on a great many downhills. This is a rollercoaster ride until you are almost at sea level.
It took us 2 days to get to our next destination of Oaxaca. A large old city, over 1500 meters (5000’) high. On the way we actually overnighted at a military checkpoint near a small village, quite safe and reasonably quiet. We had missed our campground about 50 km earlier.
Oaxaca is a BIG city in a valley surrounded by 7-8,000’ mountains one of which is crowned by Monte Alban, the ancient Zapotec Capital, first occupied 500 BC. Many pyramid type ruins have been restored. Oaxaca has a beautiful historic center with many old churches and magnificent buildings.
We found a beautiful campsite up the hill in San Felipe through our friend David, whom we met in Palenque. The San Felipe del Agua Trailer Park where David has his Motorhome is on the edge of a maguey field. Douglas French, the American owner, has lived in Mexico for 30 years and he produces one of the finest Mescal liquors in the country. We bought some that he poured out of a large 25 liter container into our own bottles, delicious to sip straight or mixed with Squirt, lime and ice.
During our 3 plus weeks stay we visited many interesting places and hiked the local hills above San Felipe, some treed and others partly covered with corn fields quite steep and dry. No rain is expected until May.
David invited us on a 3 day - 2 night trip in his Nissan SUV to Tuxtepec along Highway 175. We left early AM and in short order we were in the clouds again. Very steep and mountainous, over 2 high passes, finally ending in San Jose Chiltepec, on the Atlantic side of the Sierra where we spent the night at the best hotel in town. Double with bath, with hot shower, for 90 Mex Pesos ($12 Can). This town is almost at sea level. The villages along this route are friendly and do not see many tourists. On to Tuxtepec the next day for sight seeing and bird watching at various spots recommended in Irene’s birding books. Overnight at the Hotel Valle, at Valle Nacional, and then back to Oaxaca over the steep, winding mountain road which reached 10,000’ (3,200 m) at the summits, where it was terribly cold and windy.
On the last day of our stay in Oaxaca, we noticed a caravan of 18 RV’s jammed together in a small parking lot downtown. There were large expensive buses, 5th wheels, campers and trailers, with large national flags plastered on them and no Mexican flag visible. How fortunate we thought not having to travel with a group like that. The next day our destination was about 1/3 of the way to Cuernavaca at Balneario Atonaltzin at Tamazulapan. A small Mexican thermal spring resort with camping spots. We often stay at places like this and we are usually the only camper spending the night. We made our way through this town then down a very dusty road and came to the gate to buy our ticket. Low and behold the whole camping area was occupied by this caravan. We snaked our way through this mess of RV’s to a nice spot on the other end in the shade of a tree. We said Hello to a few people and exchange names. After parking and starting our fridge we went out to stroll around the back area outside the gates.
We returned about 2 hours later and to our surprise we found about 25 or more of this group making themselves comfortable right smack alongside our camper. Chairs lined up leaning on our truck. We could not even open the truck door to take our shoes off. Afternoon meeting with Games and Snacks. There went our quiet afternoon. They insisted we join. Some food followed by silly games. The group had arrived an hour before us, no one seemed to have either gone to look at the scenery nor enjoyed a swim. A woman showed off a large crocheted flag about the size of a door and told the ooooing crowd that her Grandmother had made it for her to take on the trip so that she always remembered what country she came from. This she repeated about 3 times. The games lasted about an hour, we left before they started. Irene went for a walk and she was seething mad and I prepared dinner. The screaming, loud laughing and trumpet blowing quit when they finally took their chairs and went back to their own vehicles. We declined the invitation to join them for Margaritas. Then we started smelling the typical exhaust fumes of generators. These people could not stop for one night without electricity without firing up a generator. One of their units was a Prevost that sells for about One Million US with a bank of batteries and yet they had to use generators. The stink was so bad that we had to move to the extreme end of the property to lessen the smell and the noise that finally quieted down a few hours later. We were the first ones to leave in morning because we did not want to get caught up with this group. We found out that morning that they were also going to Cuernavaca. There is only one campground in that city so we opted for an alternate plan as we had previously spent time in that city. There was NO way we would spend another night in the same campground with this Caravan group
At this point we were at about 6,000’. We bypassed Cuernavaca and just before Tepoztlan we joined a 6 lane highway that winds its way up and up steep and sometimes rocky mountains what seems to lead to the sky. This is the road to Mexico City about 50 km away. At about 8,000’ it appeared that we finally reached the peak when we realized that we were about halfway. We saw buses, 18 wheelers and cars way higher like toys winding their way. We finally made our exit at Tres Marais at about 10,500’. To put this altitude into perspective, Roger’s Pass in the Canadian Rockies is 4,350’. Very few passes in Colorado and California are over 5,000’.
The road to Toluca winds its way through part of the Zampoala pine forest. We stopped at the small alpine Lake Zampoala, which is surrounded by meadows and high treed forest. We stayed overnight by the Park Office, morning temperature was -3.5’C.
Through Toluca the next morning took us 2 hours to drive through this awful polluted rats nest of a City.
South side of Lake Chapalla for three days, then Villa Corona for three nights at a quiet thermal bath called El Tula. We were the only overnight guests. The owner filled a private hot pool for us to soak in. We swam in the large pool with a lake just in front of us.
Now we are in La Laguna Sta. Maria del Oro, 30 km east of Tepic. We will stay here for about 2 weeks. We plan to stay at Alamos, Sonora until the middle of March and then proceed via Arizona back to Canada.
2003 Guatemala and Tikal
Up the Usumacinta River from Chiapas to Guatemala -
to see the Three Wattled Bell Bird
At 6 am January 2, 2003 we are sitting in the dark on the steps at the reception/coffee shop Restaurant at Mayabel. It is the last Campground/Hammock/Palapa facility before the Palenque Ruins in the rain forest. It rained a lot here since we arrived here about 12 days ago.
The van to pick us up arrived at 6:20 am. Three passengers were already on board - 2 French tourists and one German. All back-packers. It is still dark and there are fog patches on the road. We make one more stop to pick up a Dutch family of five with college age children. I find out that they are going to the Yaxchilan Ruins about 150 km south of Palenque. Same route we are travelling.
As daylight breaks we see low clouds and grey sky threatening rain.
We pass small villages and houses along this exceptionally good paved windy road through fields and dark high forest. Names appear along the road - Chancala Zapote, Ejido Cascada, Cascada Asuncion. Angelalbino Corso, Nova Canan, Nuevo Francisco, El Paraiso, Nuevo Palestina. All indigenous population that speak their own language and have at times been hostile.
We stop at a parking lot for a prearranged excellent breakfast under thatched roofs in the trees. Several tables are set out buffet style food - eggs, beans, fruit juices, coffee etc. Several other vans with tourists from China, Europe, Australasia and Mexico are already there lining up for food or eating.
I meet a very interesting man at my table. He is from Mexico, had lived in various places in Europe. We talk about Bohemia, Bayreuth and music. He knew that Beethoven and Goethe had met in the famous Spa of Teplitz in Bohemia. We converse in English and excellent German.
Three days earlier we had arranged for this 3 Day package from Palenque to Tikal, Guatemala through a small agency in Palenque. We wanted to see the Ruins and hopefully a few new birds. Birding being one of our hobbies.
After breakfast we continue on to about 10 am, drop off the Dutch Family at a Lacondon Indian Village that provides Spartan accommodation for tourists. We pick up a few more tourists of various nationalities and are off to Frontera Corazal. Immigration takes our tourist cards. We find out that our visas are no longer multiple entry and we have to pay 180 pesos each (about $60 Canadian). Back on the van for about another 500 meters. We can now see the Usumacinta River through the trees as we drive down a gravel road to the Military check point.
Machine guns fortifications smart looking Mexican soldiers, very business like go through our luggage. About 10 boats are beached on the steep river bank. 
We climbed down the bank and carefully step onto our tippy boats. They are all about 10 meters long and 1 ½ meters wide, very streamlined with a thatched roof to keep out the sun or rain. We actually have neither. The river is about 150 meters wide, swollen from a lot of recent rain and moves about 15 km per hour. We have a 40 hp outboard motor and are going up the river with our trusty pilot navigator. About 20 people with 10 on each side, backpacks in the middle. Two big parrot like birds flying along get our attention. Very long tail slow wing beat. Almost immediately identified as Scarlet Macaws.
About 45 minutes later we land on the Guatemala side. While waiting for our bus that never comes I have an interesting conversion about Steinway Pianos with an young Austrian from St. Poelten. He is a piano design engineer and worked for Steinway for several years. He had interesting stories to tell about pianos.
Our group sits on logs and benches for about 25 minutes. Suddenly a man on a bicycle rushes down the hill and motions us to come with him. He urges us to hurry. We drag our luggage up the steep hill between ramshackled houses and pigs, chicken and children to a building 500 meters away. Guatemala Immigration. We get passports stamped, pay $5 US each and find out that we don’t have our arranged bus and can either wait for 2 hours or get on the local milk run/chicken bus for the 3 ½ hour ride to Flores. This bus appears to be owned by the same company as our tour transportation. A 45 passenger, 25 year old wreck, loaded with about 60-70 adults and children. I sit on a little triangle of bench next to a man and a women with a 5 year old girl on their lap. Two young boys are pressing towards me on the other side. I offer them some Juicy Fruit gum to make sure that I am on their good side. One is sucking on a can of Pepsi which comes close to blessing me with this popular 3rd world country product.
The bus bravely fights this bumpy gravel road that probably has never seen a grader. People get on and off at about 25 stops. We have a 10 minute rest in La Cruce. A few run to the local bano (bathroom). Irene and I don’t. It would take too long to get off the bus and we do not know how long it stops and we would loose our precious seats. I later find out that you needed 2 Quetzals. So far none of us tourists had a chance to get any local currency. Our next stop is at St. Elena on the shore of the lake on which Flores is located. Our destination for the next two nights. Elbowing our way to the front of the San Juan Travel Agency our tour vouchers have to be rewritten. They own a hotel, car rental, most of the buses and what else. We transfer to a mini van. Be careful, don’t put your luggage on the top as it is already piled high. Keep it between your legs. We are taken across the bridge to Flores. The small picturesque (from the distance) island town. Dust, pollution and slight hint of sewer prevails. Several women wash laundry in the lake just off the bridge. There is some fiesta starting. Someone tells us it is the Peten Festival. Beer flags for decoration are strung across the narrow streets, balloons and half tennis court size Tecate signs are strapped on buildings. American style music is blaring from giant loud speakers. Narrow
streets are blocked off by beer tents. We get to our hotel in a round about way. Drag our packs up the steps to the reception. After a few minutes wait a girl shows up. We show her our voucher. She tells us to wait “un momentito”. After what seems like 10 minutes an English speaking man comes and tell us that unfortunately our hotel is fully booked but luckily they (whoever they are) found us another hotel just around the corner. By now it is 4:30 p.m.. We carry our stuff to the other hotel. Climb the stairs to the room accompanied by the man. He says that we will like this room. “It is very clean and just as good as the one in the other hotel”. He unlocks the door. “Oh!” The room has not been made up and cleaned. “Very sorry” he says, “Only another 20 minutes”. Instead of a shower we drag our luggage back down the street (we are reluctant to leave them in the unmade room) and have two beers and tacos with friends we had met on the boat. We did take our room keys.
The next morning we get up at 4:15 am. We had actually set the alarm for 5 am to get the bus at 6 am to go to Tikal 65 km away. We did not need to have set the alarm, fire crackers at 4 am will do it just the same or better. It had rained hard about 7:30 p.m. and rained again with low clouds on the way to the Ruins.
We stop at the gate of the Park about 16 km from the actual site. It is pouring. “Everybody off the bus to buy the entrance tickets” the driver announces. Fifty Quetzals ($20) each. We protest several times saying that we had already paid in our Package. To no avail we pay again under protest. We will take it up with the agent in Palenque.
Several other people who had also prepaid are not coming back to Palenque but continuing on to other destinations. No chance for them to get their money back. Another tourist scam?
Tikal is huge! The buildings are spread out over a large area. The ground is covered by tall tropical trees. I am told that the Star War II movie has some fantastic scenes shot at Tikal at Temple IV. There is much written about Tikal so I won’t elaborate. Several interesting birds some lifers for Irene and me.
We return to Flores too tired to go to the San Juan agent in the neighboring town to complain about the Tikal entrance fee.
We leave the next morning at 5 am (5:30 Guatemala time). Quite a sight seeing two to three dozen tourists of at least 10 different nationalities, sitting on the bags in the dark, on the sidewalk, in the narrow streets. Smelly, smoky taxis rumbling by, buses and vans stopping and calling out names of destinations like Tikal, San Ignacio, Belize, Chetumal. Picking up one or more tired passengers. By the time we were picked up we had got to know a number of other travellers in the street from England, Norway, Germany, Switzerland, Italy and South America. Even met a couple who used to live in Winnipeg and now Saskatoon. This time the bus to the river is much better, takes an hour less. The Guatemala Immigration wants another $5 US We protest several times. We had been told that this is a one time fee. The Official finally apologizes and lets us go. Several people on the bus did pay twice and had no chance to go back to retrieve their money.
The river trip downstream only takes 15 minutes. Lots of scary whirlpools.
Friendly luggage search by the Mexican Army. Ten minutes later new Tourist Cards and 3 hours later back in Palenque. A short Colectivo ride brings us back to Mayabel our home away from home. We are ready for a drink and a good nights sleep.
Oh yes, we did not see the Three-wattled Bell Bird as it does not come to this area, but we saw the White Hawk, Ocellated Turkey and the King Vulture and many other exotic birds. Well, what do you expect when it rains a lot and the sun does not shine.
Advice to other tourists. Do not buy inclusive packages, just get a one way Colectivo package Palenque to the river and on to Flores. Get your own hotel and buy another one way back to Palenque or any other destination you have in mind. Example Flores to Palenque one way, bus, boat, van is only $30 US The agency we used in Palenque is Touristica Maya Chiapas. SA de CV. Av. Juarez #123C, Tel 01916 345 0798, fax - same number, E-mail “turismaya@redmaya.com”
Monday, January 6 we returned to our agent in Palenque who gladly refunded us the Tikal admission price. He was pleased to get a report from us and intends to take up the problems with tour operator in Guatemala.
Santayana, a famous travel writer wrote, “There is wisdom in turning as often as possible from the familiar to the unfamiliar; it keeps the mind nimble; it kills prejudice, and it fosters humor”.
Report by Chris Weigl, January 6, 2003
P.S.
January 25, 2003
Thinking back we really had a great trip. The hardships are fading into the background and the great memories remain. This is a trip we would recommend to anyone.
to see the Three Wattled Bell Bird
At 6 am January 2, 2003 we are sitting in the dark on the steps at the reception/coffee shop Restaurant at Mayabel. It is the last Campground/Hammock/Palapa facility before the Palenque Ruins in the rain forest. It rained a lot here since we arrived here about 12 days ago.
The van to pick us up arrived at 6:20 am. Three passengers were already on board - 2 French tourists and one German. All back-packers. It is still dark and there are fog patches on the road. We make one more stop to pick up a Dutch family of five with college age children. I find out that they are going to the Yaxchilan Ruins about 150 km south of Palenque. Same route we are travelling.
As daylight breaks we see low clouds and grey sky threatening rain.
We pass small villages and houses along this exceptionally good paved windy road through fields and dark high forest. Names appear along the road - Chancala Zapote, Ejido Cascada, Cascada Asuncion. Angelalbino Corso, Nova Canan, Nuevo Francisco, El Paraiso, Nuevo Palestina. All indigenous population that speak their own language and have at times been hostile.
We stop at a parking lot for a prearranged excellent breakfast under thatched roofs in the trees. Several tables are set out buffet style food - eggs, beans, fruit juices, coffee etc. Several other vans with tourists from China, Europe, Australasia and Mexico are already there lining up for food or eating.
I meet a very interesting man at my table. He is from Mexico, had lived in various places in Europe. We talk about Bohemia, Bayreuth and music. He knew that Beethoven and Goethe had met in the famous Spa of Teplitz in Bohemia. We converse in English and excellent German.
Three days earlier we had arranged for this 3 Day package from Palenque to Tikal, Guatemala through a small agency in Palenque. We wanted to see the Ruins and hopefully a few new birds. Birding being one of our hobbies.
After breakfast we continue on to about 10 am, drop off the Dutch Family at a Lacondon Indian Village that provides Spartan accommodation for tourists. We pick up a few more tourists of various nationalities and are off to Frontera Corazal. Immigration takes our tourist cards. We find out that our visas are no longer multiple entry and we have to pay 180 pesos each (about $60 Canadian). Back on the van for about another 500 meters. We can now see the Usumacinta River through the trees as we drive down a gravel road to the Military check point.
Machine guns fortifications smart looking Mexican soldiers, very business like go through our luggage. About 10 boats are beached on the steep river bank. 
We climbed down the bank and carefully step onto our tippy boats. They are all about 10 meters long and 1 ½ meters wide, very streamlined with a thatched roof to keep out the sun or rain. We actually have neither. The river is about 150 meters wide, swollen from a lot of recent rain and moves about 15 km per hour. We have a 40 hp outboard motor and are going up the river with our trusty pilot navigator. About 20 people with 10 on each side, backpacks in the middle. Two big parrot like birds flying along get our attention. Very long tail slow wing beat. Almost immediately identified as Scarlet Macaws.About 45 minutes later we land on the Guatemala side. While waiting for our bus that never comes I have an interesting conversion about Steinway Pianos with an young Austrian from St. Poelten. He is a piano design engineer and worked for Steinway for several years. He had interesting stories to tell about pianos.
Our group sits on logs and benches for about 25 minutes. Suddenly a man on a bicycle rushes down the hill and motions us to come with him. He urges us to hurry. We drag our luggage up the steep hill between ramshackled houses and pigs, chicken and children to a building 500 meters away. Guatemala Immigration. We get passports stamped, pay $5 US each and find out that we don’t have our arranged bus and can either wait for 2 hours or get on the local milk run/chicken bus for the 3 ½ hour ride to Flores. This bus appears to be owned by the same company as our tour transportation. A 45 passenger, 25 year old wreck, loaded with about 60-70 adults and children. I sit on a little triangle of bench next to a man and a women with a 5 year old girl on their lap. Two young boys are pressing towards me on the other side. I offer them some Juicy Fruit gum to make sure that I am on their good side. One is sucking on a can of Pepsi which comes close to blessing me with this popular 3rd world country product.
The bus bravely fights this bumpy gravel road that probably has never seen a grader. People get on and off at about 25 stops. We have a 10 minute rest in La Cruce. A few run to the local bano (bathroom). Irene and I don’t. It would take too long to get off the bus and we do not know how long it stops and we would loose our precious seats. I later find out that you needed 2 Quetzals. So far none of us tourists had a chance to get any local currency. Our next stop is at St. Elena on the shore of the lake on which Flores is located. Our destination for the next two nights. Elbowing our way to the front of the San Juan Travel Agency our tour vouchers have to be rewritten. They own a hotel, car rental, most of the buses and what else. We transfer to a mini van. Be careful, don’t put your luggage on the top as it is already piled high. Keep it between your legs. We are taken across the bridge to Flores. The small picturesque (from the distance) island town. Dust, pollution and slight hint of sewer prevails. Several women wash laundry in the lake just off the bridge. There is some fiesta starting. Someone tells us it is the Peten Festival. Beer flags for decoration are strung across the narrow streets, balloons and half tennis court size Tecate signs are strapped on buildings. American style music is blaring from giant loud speakers. Narrow
streets are blocked off by beer tents. We get to our hotel in a round about way. Drag our packs up the steps to the reception. After a few minutes wait a girl shows up. We show her our voucher. She tells us to wait “un momentito”. After what seems like 10 minutes an English speaking man comes and tell us that unfortunately our hotel is fully booked but luckily they (whoever they are) found us another hotel just around the corner. By now it is 4:30 p.m.. We carry our stuff to the other hotel. Climb the stairs to the room accompanied by the man. He says that we will like this room. “It is very clean and just as good as the one in the other hotel”. He unlocks the door. “Oh!” The room has not been made up and cleaned. “Very sorry” he says, “Only another 20 minutes”. Instead of a shower we drag our luggage back down the street (we are reluctant to leave them in the unmade room) and have two beers and tacos with friends we had met on the boat. We did take our room keys.
The next morning we get up at 4:15 am. We had actually set the alarm for 5 am to get the bus at 6 am to go to Tikal 65 km away. We did not need to have set the alarm, fire crackers at 4 am will do it just the same or better. It had rained hard about 7:30 p.m. and rained again with low clouds on the way to the Ruins.
We stop at the gate of the Park about 16 km from the actual site. It is pouring. “Everybody off the bus to buy the entrance tickets” the driver announces. Fifty Quetzals ($20) each. We protest several times saying that we had already paid in our Package. To no avail we pay again under protest. We will take it up with the agent in Palenque.
Several other people who had also prepaid are not coming back to Palenque but continuing on to other destinations. No chance for them to get their money back. Another tourist scam?
Tikal is huge! The buildings are spread out over a large area. The ground is covered by tall tropical trees. I am told that the Star War II movie has some fantastic scenes shot at Tikal at Temple IV. There is much written about Tikal so I won’t elaborate. Several interesting birds some lifers for Irene and me.
We return to Flores too tired to go to the San Juan agent in the neighboring town to complain about the Tikal entrance fee.
We leave the next morning at 5 am (5:30 Guatemala time). Quite a sight seeing two to three dozen tourists of at least 10 different nationalities, sitting on the bags in the dark, on the sidewalk, in the narrow streets. Smelly, smoky taxis rumbling by, buses and vans stopping and calling out names of destinations like Tikal, San Ignacio, Belize, Chetumal. Picking up one or more tired passengers. By the time we were picked up we had got to know a number of other travellers in the street from England, Norway, Germany, Switzerland, Italy and South America. Even met a couple who used to live in Winnipeg and now Saskatoon. This time the bus to the river is much better, takes an hour less. The Guatemala Immigration wants another $5 US We protest several times. We had been told that this is a one time fee. The Official finally apologizes and lets us go. Several people on the bus did pay twice and had no chance to go back to retrieve their money.
The river trip downstream only takes 15 minutes. Lots of scary whirlpools.
Friendly luggage search by the Mexican Army. Ten minutes later new Tourist Cards and 3 hours later back in Palenque. A short Colectivo ride brings us back to Mayabel our home away from home. We are ready for a drink and a good nights sleep.
Oh yes, we did not see the Three-wattled Bell Bird as it does not come to this area, but we saw the White Hawk, Ocellated Turkey and the King Vulture and many other exotic birds. Well, what do you expect when it rains a lot and the sun does not shine.
Advice to other tourists. Do not buy inclusive packages, just get a one way Colectivo package Palenque to the river and on to Flores. Get your own hotel and buy another one way back to Palenque or any other destination you have in mind. Example Flores to Palenque one way, bus, boat, van is only $30 US The agency we used in Palenque is Touristica Maya Chiapas. SA de CV. Av. Juarez #123C, Tel 01916 345 0798, fax - same number, E-mail “turismaya@redmaya.com”
Monday, January 6 we returned to our agent in Palenque who gladly refunded us the Tikal admission price. He was pleased to get a report from us and intends to take up the problems with tour operator in Guatemala.
Santayana, a famous travel writer wrote, “There is wisdom in turning as often as possible from the familiar to the unfamiliar; it keeps the mind nimble; it kills prejudice, and it fosters humor”.
Report by Chris Weigl, January 6, 2003
P.S.
January 25, 2003
Thinking back we really had a great trip. The hardships are fading into the background and the great memories remain. This is a trip we would recommend to anyone.
2002 Christmas - to Palenque
It is that time of year again.
MERRY CHRISTMAS and ALL THE BEST IN THE NEW YEAR!!
We are currently enroute to Palenque area. We changed our plans and are going further south.
We have just left the Los Tuxlas area south of Veracruz. This area is a range of volcanic peaks and ridges that reach from sea level in the Bay of Campeche to about 6,000'. In this area is Lake Catemaco formed from several extinct volcanoes. The area is very rugged and ranges from moist tropical jungles to pineapple, banana, orange plantations and cattle farms. The habitat for birds is tremendous but the area has lost much of its jungle due to agriculture. There is a movement by William Shaldach Jr. to have this restored but it will take time and money.
We will be moving on through the marsh area of Tabasco were the Olmec Heads were found. These large carved heads weigh tons and have been moved to a museum at Villahermosa. The lands where they were found have been drained for the development of the oil industry.
When we think of you at Christmas time we will be at a campground about 1km from the famous Palenque Mayan Ruins. They are one of the most mystical and beautiful ruins on the Mayan route.
We hope the New Year for you will be the best ever!
Chris and Irene
MERRY CHRISTMAS and ALL THE BEST IN THE NEW YEAR!!
We are currently enroute to Palenque area. We changed our plans and are going further south.
We have just left the Los Tuxlas area south of Veracruz. This area is a range of volcanic peaks and ridges that reach from sea level in the Bay of Campeche to about 6,000'. In this area is Lake Catemaco formed from several extinct volcanoes. The area is very rugged and ranges from moist tropical jungles to pineapple, banana, orange plantations and cattle farms. The habitat for birds is tremendous but the area has lost much of its jungle due to agriculture. There is a movement by William Shaldach Jr. to have this restored but it will take time and money.
We will be moving on through the marsh area of Tabasco were the Olmec Heads were found. These large carved heads weigh tons and have been moved to a museum at Villahermosa. The lands where they were found have been drained for the development of the oil industry.
When we think of you at Christmas time we will be at a campground about 1km from the famous Palenque Mayan Ruins. They are one of the most mystical and beautiful ruins on the Mayan route.
We hope the New Year for you will be the best ever!
Chris and Irene
2002 Emerald Coast Mexico
We are really slow - it has taken us a month to reach the Emerald Coast of Mexico (this is the beach area just south of Poza Rica). We are parked on grass very near the beach and we can walk miles along the waterfront. The sand is dark brown but finely grained so it is very pleasant for bare feet. There is only one other nice Canadian couple from Quebec (in a VW camper) and today we had 2 busload of Mexican families from Veracruz that came to spend the day. Extremely pleasant and happy families.
We spent 2 1/2 weeks in Mc Allen, Texas where we experienced rain and more rain. Brownsville had 20" of rain in 14 days and many areas were flooded. We kept looking at the map and thinking that the rain was not too much fun but the cold weather and tornadoes were much less desirable - so we just stayed and enjoyed ourselves. We have been in Mexico for about a week and already have had one El Norte come through. The winds were very high on the beach, but the temperatures have been very pleasant.
That is enough about the weather. We just finished spending a day at the Totonac Ruins of El Tajin. It is a small area in comparison to the famous Chichen Itza and Uxmal Ruins in the Yucatan, but has a "small town" feel about it. It is beautiful and extremely well maintained.
Our trip through the States was pleasant and we missed cold weather and storms (back to weather again) The bird migration was in full swing except the waterfowl which comes later and we missed the Whooping Cranes. The water table at Cheyenne Bottoms Refuge in Kansas was very low - areas that would have lots of ducks was now almost dry. Hopefully it does not stay that way. We went on to stay at the City Park in Perryton and then drove about 20 miles to Wolf Creek Park at Fryer Lake. We drove straight south to Laredo and spent a few days at Zapata. It is a newly constructed town as the old town was at the bottom of Falcon Lake when the dam was constructed, but has reappeared as the lake is very low. Where there were boat docks and fishing piers just a few years ago there are now large mesquite trees and vegetation. The rains had come across from Hurricane "Kenna" and the water had risen a few feet. What a disaster!
While in McAllen we visited Nuevo Progresso and did all our paper work for Mexico. It was extremely easy to do there. We then would only have the 20 km check point when we officially entered the country. (That was also easy). We seemed to keep quite busy in McAllen. We had some minor things done to the truck; we visited Santa Ana (a birding disappointment); we did some bike riding and mostly walking to the Library for the Internet and shopping. We took the camper off the truck so we had wheels for driving.
Again this time we were able to co-ordinate our stay to meet with friends from Winnipeg (George and Carolyn) who were returning from Lago Catemaco, Mexico and heading home to the cold weather. We will stay along the coast here for a week or so as we seem to get "beached out" fairly quickly. We couldn't help but think of Linda and Richard as they are directly across the Gulf of Mexico from us. It would be nice to wave and say "Hello".
We started this letter Nov 20 and now it is the 29th and we are still here, but have moved to a Restauant/campground - Coco Loco's near Casita. (They have a website www.hotelcocoloco.com). We have been enjoying walking the deserted beach and riding our bikes to different locations. They have a wide shoulder on the road here so it seems quite safe. An El Norte has blown in and brought wind and rain.
We will write again when we arrive in Lago Catemaco, south of Veracruz. We are not sure when we will get there as our schedule keeps changing (I should say that we keep changing our minds)
We spent 2 1/2 weeks in Mc Allen, Texas where we experienced rain and more rain. Brownsville had 20" of rain in 14 days and many areas were flooded. We kept looking at the map and thinking that the rain was not too much fun but the cold weather and tornadoes were much less desirable - so we just stayed and enjoyed ourselves. We have been in Mexico for about a week and already have had one El Norte come through. The winds were very high on the beach, but the temperatures have been very pleasant.
That is enough about the weather. We just finished spending a day at the Totonac Ruins of El Tajin. It is a small area in comparison to the famous Chichen Itza and Uxmal Ruins in the Yucatan, but has a "small town" feel about it. It is beautiful and extremely well maintained.
Our trip through the States was pleasant and we missed cold weather and storms (back to weather again) The bird migration was in full swing except the waterfowl which comes later and we missed the Whooping Cranes. The water table at Cheyenne Bottoms Refuge in Kansas was very low - areas that would have lots of ducks was now almost dry. Hopefully it does not stay that way. We went on to stay at the City Park in Perryton and then drove about 20 miles to Wolf Creek Park at Fryer Lake. We drove straight south to Laredo and spent a few days at Zapata. It is a newly constructed town as the old town was at the bottom of Falcon Lake when the dam was constructed, but has reappeared as the lake is very low. Where there were boat docks and fishing piers just a few years ago there are now large mesquite trees and vegetation. The rains had come across from Hurricane "Kenna" and the water had risen a few feet. What a disaster!
While in McAllen we visited Nuevo Progresso and did all our paper work for Mexico. It was extremely easy to do there. We then would only have the 20 km check point when we officially entered the country. (That was also easy). We seemed to keep quite busy in McAllen. We had some minor things done to the truck; we visited Santa Ana (a birding disappointment); we did some bike riding and mostly walking to the Library for the Internet and shopping. We took the camper off the truck so we had wheels for driving.
Again this time we were able to co-ordinate our stay to meet with friends from Winnipeg (George and Carolyn) who were returning from Lago Catemaco, Mexico and heading home to the cold weather. We will stay along the coast here for a week or so as we seem to get "beached out" fairly quickly. We couldn't help but think of Linda and Richard as they are directly across the Gulf of Mexico from us. It would be nice to wave and say "Hello".
We started this letter Nov 20 and now it is the 29th and we are still here, but have moved to a Restauant/campground - Coco Loco's near Casita. (They have a website www.hotelcocoloco.com). We have been enjoying walking the deserted beach and riding our bikes to different locations. They have a wide shoulder on the road here so it seems quite safe. An El Norte has blown in and brought wind and rain.
We will write again when we arrive in Lago Catemaco, south of Veracruz. We are not sure when we will get there as our schedule keeps changing (I should say that we keep changing our minds)
2002 Movie extras
It is that time of year again when we are making plans to move south - just like the birds.
So far our plans are to leave here about the middle of Oct and work our way to McAllen, Texas, where we will enter Mexico about the middle of November. We plan on touring down the east coast as far as Lago Catemaco. Christmas and New Years will be spent in Cuidad Valles area. After the celebrations we will move on to San Miguel de Allende, Durango, Teacapan (maybe to La Laguna Sta Maria del Oro also). We will then work our way north to Alamos, Sonora, and leave Mexico about the end of March.
This year we plan to visit Chris' family in Vancouver area so our wheels will take us north through either California or Nevada. Our plans usually change either due to desire or the need to have something checked on the rig.
If you have a television here is an important announcement. Watch for the following:
Date Oct 6, 2002. Time 8 p.m. Channel CBS. Title "The Battle of Mary Kay" starring Shirley McLean and 4 different scenes with Chris and Irene as Extras in Boardroom, Church scene, Executive Office, in front of Cancer Unit as dignitaries.
Also on Nov. 17 on CBS is the story of Enron called "The Crooked E". Next Feb on NBC will be the story of Three's Company possibly called "Behind the Scenes" These are two others that we have been on as Extras. "Behind the Scenes" we have been on a number of shoots. It is very interesting to see what goes on to prepare for a scene. So far we are enjoying it and it does pay some money also.
So far our plans are to leave here about the middle of Oct and work our way to McAllen, Texas, where we will enter Mexico about the middle of November. We plan on touring down the east coast as far as Lago Catemaco. Christmas and New Years will be spent in Cuidad Valles area. After the celebrations we will move on to San Miguel de Allende, Durango, Teacapan (maybe to La Laguna Sta Maria del Oro also). We will then work our way north to Alamos, Sonora, and leave Mexico about the end of March.
This year we plan to visit Chris' family in Vancouver area so our wheels will take us north through either California or Nevada. Our plans usually change either due to desire or the need to have something checked on the rig.
If you have a television here is an important announcement. Watch for the following:
Date Oct 6, 2002. Time 8 p.m. Channel CBS. Title "The Battle of Mary Kay" starring Shirley McLean and 4 different scenes with Chris and Irene as Extras in Boardroom, Church scene, Executive Office, in front of Cancer Unit as dignitaries.
Also on Nov. 17 on CBS is the story of Enron called "The Crooked E". Next Feb on NBC will be the story of Three's Company possibly called "Behind the Scenes" These are two others that we have been on as Extras. "Behind the Scenes" we have been on a number of shoots. It is very interesting to see what goes on to prepare for a scene. So far we are enjoying it and it does pay some money also.
2002 Guanajuato to Cuidad Valles and Tamosopo
Our time in Mexico is rapidly coming to a close. We are currently in Cuidad Valles and at a Balneario (Hot springs) just south of town called El Banito. We have been here for a couple of days enjoying the pools and the 35' C weather. It is almost too hot and it is time to move north.
Our previous stay was at Cascadas de Tamosopo. Tamosopo is located in the state of San Luis Potosi and in a mountain area. The cascadas or waterfalls begi n at a 20 meter level and then split into three 15 meter cascades that fall into a deep pool. Chris swung from a rope and jumped into the pool many times. Irene does not enjoy that and spent a little time in the shallow areas around the falls and rapids. The water was about 33'C so it was most pleasant. During the week the area is not too busy, but on he weekends many families come to swim. The surrounding area to the west is quite mountainous and very scenic and to the east is a fertile valley. We ended up staying for 6 days.
To continue what happened with our tires. We, with the aid of the Tourist Bureau in Guanajuato, located tires for our truck in Celaya. We left Guanajuato for San Miguel de Allende via Celaya. So our truck is sporting 2 new rear tires and we now have a good spare also.
We found San Miguel quite busy with lots of road construction. Our first couple of nights was spent at La Siesta Trailer Park and then we moved to San Ramon's Balneario for a couple of days. This was very peaceful and quiet comparing to the La Siesta. They also have pools for swimming. While in San Miguel we had a chance to visit with friends, Bob and Cathy Graham, from Point Pelee who now have a home there for the winter.
We must mention another stop that we made which was between Tamosopo and San Miguel. We overnighted in a large Balneario called Gogorron near Ville de Reyes. This one had about 6 large pools and varying temperatures from 42' to 35'C. For more information on the places that we mention you could check "TheLonely Planet"or "The Moon Book" on Mexico or access the Mexico web sites on the Internet.
Our next major stop will be McAllan, Texas where we hope to meet up with friends, George and Carolyn from Winnipeg.
Just a birding note - we have spotted 408 species on this trip but only added 6 lifers.
Our previous stay was at Cascadas de Tamosopo. Tamosopo is located in the state of San Luis Potosi and in a mountain area. The cascadas or waterfalls begi n at a 20 meter level and then split into three 15 meter cascades that fall into a deep pool. Chris swung from a rope and jumped into the pool many times. Irene does not enjoy that and spent a little time in the shallow areas around the falls and rapids. The water was about 33'C so it was most pleasant. During the week the area is not too busy, but on he weekends many families come to swim. The surrounding area to the west is quite mountainous and very scenic and to the east is a fertile valley. We ended up staying for 6 days.
To continue what happened with our tires. We, with the aid of the Tourist Bureau in Guanajuato, located tires for our truck in Celaya. We left Guanajuato for San Miguel de Allende via Celaya. So our truck is sporting 2 new rear tires and we now have a good spare also.
We found San Miguel quite busy with lots of road construction. Our first couple of nights was spent at La Siesta Trailer Park and then we moved to San Ramon's Balneario for a couple of days. This was very peaceful and quiet comparing to the La Siesta. They also have pools for swimming. While in San Miguel we had a chance to visit with friends, Bob and Cathy Graham, from Point Pelee who now have a home there for the winter.
We must mention another stop that we made which was between Tamosopo and San Miguel. We overnighted in a large Balneario called Gogorron near Ville de Reyes. This one had about 6 large pools and varying temperatures from 42' to 35'C. For more information on the places that we mention you could check "TheLonely Planet"or "The Moon Book" on Mexico or access the Mexico web sites on the Internet.
Our next major stop will be McAllan, Texas where we hope to meet up with friends, George and Carolyn from Winnipeg.
Just a birding note - we have spotted 408 species on this trip but only added 6 lifers.
2002 La Laguna to Guanajuato
We are into our final month in Mexico and we plan to cross into the USA on March 22 as that is the weekend before Easter Holy Week. In Mexico it is called Semana Santa and it is a huge travel and fiesta time. We usually plan to be off the roads during the Holiday as it is too busy and too much chance of accident.
Since our last news letter we have spent our time at La Laguna Sta Maria del Oro. The truck checked out just fine in Tepic so we continued on our way. We have spent many days at La Laguna, but now we are not too sure if we will return. The owner has hired a U.S. fellow to be his manager and he was the one creating all the noise. He played his boom-box at all hours and became quite threatening at times if he was asked to turn it down among other things. It was not the most pleasant time although we certainly made other times pleasant for ourselves by going on hikes, birding, biking or enjoying our visits with friends. In the afternoon we were often asked over for cappucino at Ben Wassink's. We always enjoy our visits and travels with Ben.
We had 3 days of steady rain at La Laguna, which can happen in February. The ground was very dry so the rain was welcome.
We (Ben also joined us in his VW campervan) have moved on to another place we have visited a few times - La Noria just west of Tepic in the pine, oak and cactus forests. The forest here has been untouched and the trees are most impressive. The needles of these pines are about 7" and when backlit by the sun it is just gorgeous. The nights here are cool and the days quite warm. We are at about 5,000' and within sight of the ocean at San Blas. The 9km road up the mountain has become very rutted and difficult to drive. The last rain did a number on the road and the grades had become rivers. We drove it exceedingly slow and tried to avoid some of the deep grooves. If the road does not improve it may become to difficult to drive. It is very peaceful here especially without the rap music from our previous place. We have been hiking every morning and some days we do not go great distances as there are things to see. We have gone further some days and then gotten a lift from a passing vehicle back up the hill. We have seen some interesting birds including the Red-headed Tanager, Red-faced Warbler, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Arizona Woodpecker, Grey-crowned Woodpecker and many migrant species.
We have been listening to Puerto Vallarta radio and among the classical music they played was Marriage of Figaro with Elizabeth Schwartzkopf and George London with the Vienna State Opera.
Since writing the above it is now Feb 27 and we have moved on to the State of Guanajuato. Well it finally happened we had a tire blow out as we were coming into the city of Guanajuato. We were on a narrow 2 lane busy highway when it happened, but luck was we were only travelling about 30kph and we were able to find a place to pull off. Three fellows came walking by and started to help us when the "Green Angels" appeared. The Green Angels are a government agency that patrols the highways of Mexico helping drivers and in particular tourists that are stranded. The spare tire had to be brought up to pressure of 80 lbs as it had gone down to 65. (It had been checked a couple of months ago). The Green Angels took it into town to have it reinflated and returned to our vehicle and finished the job. Our next problem was to try and buy a new tire as the old one was almost shredded. Radial tires of the size LT235 R16 80 are very difficult to find as they use conventional tube tires. At the time of writing we are waiting for a phone call from Goodyear to tell us that one has arrived. We checked with three companies yesterday and none had any in stock.
We are enjoying ourselves in this beautiful capital city so we are not suffering and we have lots of time. This morning we went to a rehearsal of the Symphony, Tchaikovsky's Piano Concerto No.1, and later just wandered the town and had delicious lamb tortas at the Market. Since this is an University city there is an Internet service on almost every block and they charge about 12 pecos per hour which is about $2 Can per hour.
Since our last news letter we have spent our time at La Laguna Sta Maria del Oro. The truck checked out just fine in Tepic so we continued on our way. We have spent many days at La Laguna, but now we are not too sure if we will return. The owner has hired a U.S. fellow to be his manager and he was the one creating all the noise. He played his boom-box at all hours and became quite threatening at times if he was asked to turn it down among other things. It was not the most pleasant time although we certainly made other times pleasant for ourselves by going on hikes, birding, biking or enjoying our visits with friends. In the afternoon we were often asked over for cappucino at Ben Wassink's. We always enjoy our visits and travels with Ben.
We had 3 days of steady rain at La Laguna, which can happen in February. The ground was very dry so the rain was welcome.
We (Ben also joined us in his VW campervan) have moved on to another place we have visited a few times - La Noria just west of Tepic in the pine, oak and cactus forests. The forest here has been untouched and the trees are most impressive. The needles of these pines are about 7" and when backlit by the sun it is just gorgeous. The nights here are cool and the days quite warm. We are at about 5,000' and within sight of the ocean at San Blas. The 9km road up the mountain has become very rutted and difficult to drive. The last rain did a number on the road and the grades had become rivers. We drove it exceedingly slow and tried to avoid some of the deep grooves. If the road does not improve it may become to difficult to drive. It is very peaceful here especially without the rap music from our previous place. We have been hiking every morning and some days we do not go great distances as there are things to see. We have gone further some days and then gotten a lift from a passing vehicle back up the hill. We have seen some interesting birds including the Red-headed Tanager, Red-faced Warbler, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Arizona Woodpecker, Grey-crowned Woodpecker and many migrant species.
We have been listening to Puerto Vallarta radio and among the classical music they played was Marriage of Figaro with Elizabeth Schwartzkopf and George London with the Vienna State Opera.
Since writing the above it is now Feb 27 and we have moved on to the State of Guanajuato. Well it finally happened we had a tire blow out as we were coming into the city of Guanajuato. We were on a narrow 2 lane busy highway when it happened, but luck was we were only travelling about 30kph and we were able to find a place to pull off. Three fellows came walking by and started to help us when the "Green Angels" appeared. The Green Angels are a government agency that patrols the highways of Mexico helping drivers and in particular tourists that are stranded. The spare tire had to be brought up to pressure of 80 lbs as it had gone down to 65. (It had been checked a couple of months ago). The Green Angels took it into town to have it reinflated and returned to our vehicle and finished the job. Our next problem was to try and buy a new tire as the old one was almost shredded. Radial tires of the size LT235 R16 80 are very difficult to find as they use conventional tube tires. At the time of writing we are waiting for a phone call from Goodyear to tell us that one has arrived. We checked with three companies yesterday and none had any in stock.
We are enjoying ourselves in this beautiful capital city so we are not suffering and we have lots of time. This morning we went to a rehearsal of the Symphony, Tchaikovsky's Piano Concerto No.1, and later just wandered the town and had delicious lamb tortas at the Market. Since this is an University city there is an Internet service on almost every block and they charge about 12 pecos per hour which is about $2 Can per hour.
2002 Teacapan to La Laguna Sta Maria del Oro
We have left Alamos behind and have parked on the beach at Teacapan. In some ways we still were not ready to leave the Colonial town but then maybe that is the best time to go as we will be more anxious to return. Many wished us safe travels and we hope to see them again in the fall. The last few weeks in Alamos were very busy. It seemed that we walked downtown about twice a day. Once in the morning and then in the evening as there seemed to be things going on. We enjoyed movies twice a week - alternating between foreign and American films. These were shown in the theatre connected to the Museum and the Museum director had to make a special trip to open the door for us and one evening he completely forgot. He was tracked down and the movie started 1 hour late. No one seemed to mind as the weather was pleasant and we all enjoyed the time to visit around the Plaza and since it was early on Sunday evening the local vendors were starting to set up their food stands for the crowd after Church.
We stayed one day longer than planned as we had an invitation to go birding at Isla Huivalai with Dave Verner. He is an enthusiastic birder and even had an extra scope for Chris to use. We saw 74 species in our visit to the marshes. This was mainly the migrant water birds from the north with large concentration of American Avocets, Northern Pintails, Lesser Scaups, Am White Pelicans and Brants. This area is north of Navajoa and on the coast.
We are now parked with our back door facing the beach and the spectacular evening sunsets. The temperatures are very pleasant during the day with the high only reaching 25' C and 15' C at night. Since we are by the ocean the humidity is about 80% or more. We are parked in a coconut grove and the coconuts seem to fall quite often which requires disposal and in Mexico that means burning them. Coconuts are made up of many oil and they burn and smoke quite vigorously. The smell is quite strong and penetrates everything. This is the unpleasant part of parking here, but there does not seems to be anyway to get away from it. The Mexicans do have a compulsion to burn leaves, garbage, dried grass and plastic. The town is built by an estuary with an island protecting the harbor. We are on that estuary and do not have the huge waves pounding the beach like on the open ocean. The beach here is lovely sand and at low tide is hard for walking or biking and you can walk for miles.
If you are trying to locate Teacapan on the map it is located 150 south of Mazatlan or about 50 km south west of Escaunapa. There is a huge mangrove marsh complex inland which has huge numbers of water birds. Our Winnipeg species fly here also for the winter.
Since I never sent this on in San Blas we have now moved on down the coast with a week in San Blas and then a quick visit to Miramar and then on to a newly opened park only 15 km south of Santa Cruz.
Our stay in San Blas was pleasant and seemed to be busy.A friend of ours from Ottawa, Ben Wassink, joined us there for a few days. We had a good time but the last evening we were there Ben was robbed. While we were having dinner his VW was entered and they took his bag which contained his digital camera, binocular, digital recorder, and birding books. Needless to say this was not a pleasant occurrence. We left early the next morning and did not realize this had happened and he was not aware of it until he was getting ready to leave also. We met him at Paraiso, Miramar and heard the news. The police found his bag and a few little things were left inside but of coarse the things that can be sold were gone.
In San Blas I did spend some time at the internet but the lines were so slow. We almost felt like taking a book along while we waited for the screen to load. The price was higher than usual so decided to do this work further on when everything was more conducive to receiving and sending our mail.
This e-mail will be sent from Tepic as we have had another change of plans. Chris has noticed a clicking sound in the front end of the truck and we want to have it checked out as soon as possible. Tepic is the only city in the area that would have the facitilies to check this and would be able to get the parts as there is a Ford dealership there.
This is being written about 100km from Tepic and we are at a new trailer park located on a cliff above the ocean. From the restaurant area there is a terrific view of the bay towards San Blas. The park is in it infantsy so in some ways it is primitive camping. The water for our shower is heated by a wood-burning water heater. The grounds are very shaded with mangoe trees and behind us is extremely dense oil palms and bushes. The bird activity is minimal but we have had some good walks of the area. Just a short distance is a beautiful 1km long beach that is deserted and behind is a mangrove swamp.
Since we are now headed inland we will go on to La Laguna Sta Maria del Oro and leave the beach area behind us. We don't really mind as the humidity will be much less inland and the nights will be cooler. We enjoy the beach for a couple of weeks and then we look forward to the highlands area. We have had a few bites including chiggers and some ants but we have been going into the mangroves and some grass areas so I guess we could expect it. The no-see-ums are for ever present along this coast.
We stayed one day longer than planned as we had an invitation to go birding at Isla Huivalai with Dave Verner. He is an enthusiastic birder and even had an extra scope for Chris to use. We saw 74 species in our visit to the marshes. This was mainly the migrant water birds from the north with large concentration of American Avocets, Northern Pintails, Lesser Scaups, Am White Pelicans and Brants. This area is north of Navajoa and on the coast.
We are now parked with our back door facing the beach and the spectacular evening sunsets. The temperatures are very pleasant during the day with the high only reaching 25' C and 15' C at night. Since we are by the ocean the humidity is about 80% or more. We are parked in a coconut grove and the coconuts seem to fall quite often which requires disposal and in Mexico that means burning them. Coconuts are made up of many oil and they burn and smoke quite vigorously. The smell is quite strong and penetrates everything. This is the unpleasant part of parking here, but there does not seems to be anyway to get away from it. The Mexicans do have a compulsion to burn leaves, garbage, dried grass and plastic. The town is built by an estuary with an island protecting the harbor. We are on that estuary and do not have the huge waves pounding the beach like on the open ocean. The beach here is lovely sand and at low tide is hard for walking or biking and you can walk for miles.
If you are trying to locate Teacapan on the map it is located 150 south of Mazatlan or about 50 km south west of Escaunapa. There is a huge mangrove marsh complex inland which has huge numbers of water birds. Our Winnipeg species fly here also for the winter.
Since I never sent this on in San Blas we have now moved on down the coast with a week in San Blas and then a quick visit to Miramar and then on to a newly opened park only 15 km south of Santa Cruz.
Our stay in San Blas was pleasant and seemed to be busy.A friend of ours from Ottawa, Ben Wassink, joined us there for a few days. We had a good time but the last evening we were there Ben was robbed. While we were having dinner his VW was entered and they took his bag which contained his digital camera, binocular, digital recorder, and birding books. Needless to say this was not a pleasant occurrence. We left early the next morning and did not realize this had happened and he was not aware of it until he was getting ready to leave also. We met him at Paraiso, Miramar and heard the news. The police found his bag and a few little things were left inside but of coarse the things that can be sold were gone.
In San Blas I did spend some time at the internet but the lines were so slow. We almost felt like taking a book along while we waited for the screen to load. The price was higher than usual so decided to do this work further on when everything was more conducive to receiving and sending our mail.
This e-mail will be sent from Tepic as we have had another change of plans. Chris has noticed a clicking sound in the front end of the truck and we want to have it checked out as soon as possible. Tepic is the only city in the area that would have the facitilies to check this and would be able to get the parts as there is a Ford dealership there.
This is being written about 100km from Tepic and we are at a new trailer park located on a cliff above the ocean. From the restaurant area there is a terrific view of the bay towards San Blas. The park is in it infantsy so in some ways it is primitive camping. The water for our shower is heated by a wood-burning water heater. The grounds are very shaded with mangoe trees and behind us is extremely dense oil palms and bushes. The bird activity is minimal but we have had some good walks of the area. Just a short distance is a beautiful 1km long beach that is deserted and behind is a mangrove swamp.
Since we are now headed inland we will go on to La Laguna Sta Maria del Oro and leave the beach area behind us. We don't really mind as the humidity will be much less inland and the nights will be cooler. We enjoy the beach for a couple of weeks and then we look forward to the highlands area. We have had a few bites including chiggers and some ants but we have been going into the mangroves and some grass areas so I guess we could expect it. The no-see-ums are for ever present along this coast.
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