2005 South Africa

Fall 2005

South Africa is a huge country and we spent weeks in the planning. We had to plan our best route for birds and animals, with time for sightseeing.

Our six weeks in Africa involved lots of travelling (driving on the left), birdwatching, sightseeing and mainly watching for animals that Africa is so famous for.

Starting at the beginning. Our flight originated in Toronto, changed to South African Airways and stopped in Dakar, Senegal for refueling. Seventeen hours later we landed in Johannesburg where we were met by a representative of our van rental company and taken to a very nice Bed and Breakfast -Klip Els. The next day we outfitted our camper with supplies and headed out of town. Our next stops included Witbank (Dam Recreation Area) and Wakkerstroom (Weavers Rest B&B, and Die Oude Stasi).

On to Nature Reserves. Poponga and Mkuzi where we saw a variety of animals at the drying-up water hole. Birds were numerous and kept us busy identifying them. We had hoped to see elephants but because of lack of water they had moved out of the St. Lucia area to Charters Creek where we had just come from.



We left the Indian Ocean area and our camp that was infested with Ververt Monkeys and Mongooses. These were actually pests and broke into any camp that had food around wasn't locked up and stored properly. It actually was funny watching the attendant trying to chase them off and they only made a circle around him and went back to the camp. We have this circus captured on video tape.


Eschowe. This town has a beautifully built aerial skyway, great museum basket gallery and restaurant. We stayed a couple of nights in the Municipal Campground and walked along the river, which had a biking/walking trail. We needed some car repairs and this was promptly done while we went for lunch and did our Internet.


Leaving Eschowe for Lake Eland Game Ranch, Port Shepstone we gassed-up at Ultra City ( a full service mall along the freeway). This particular one had a number of handicraft shops with great
items and very good prices. We bought a carved African chair, which now is in use in our Living room. We drove to Shepstone via the Oribi Gorge as we thought we could camp there, but the camp was closed and with inquiries we found the Game Ranch. We had rain in Eschowe and here we had
a high wind, which was fine the second day. We found a
spectacular coffee shop overlooking a deep river gorge. The Leopard Rock Coffee House – and the coffee and food was also good.

On to Underberg where we will take a day trip to Sani Pass, Lesotho. We had rented a used camper (the price was right), but after fixing the carburetor we now had work on the muffler as we could smell exhaust in the camper. The shop took it in right away and we were soon on our way again. The local Nature Reserve was closed for camping and ended up parking at Sani Tours B & B. This was very handy as we were travelling with them the next day. The road to Sani Pass can only be done in 4x4 as it is steep, extremely rough and spectacular. We had a gorgeous day for the trip with lots of picture opportunities. At the top 2900m (9500') it was quite barren with very little vegetation. The restaurant was operated by the local people and did a great job of serving everyone and the food was also very good. The setting was awesome overlooking the valley below. We had a tour and informative talk about the local people and their customs. We had some special bird sightings on this high elevation including small ice rats.


Leaving Underberg we stopped at Howick Falls (very touristy) and found the KZN Nature Conservation Park at Midmar. It was a dam and recreational center, but was quiet when we were there. We only stayed one night and the next day we drove through Ladysmith. It was market day and very busy and not inviting to stop. Just north of there is the location where Nelson Mandela was captured. It was rolling hills, green with lots of trees. Before arriving at Memel we drove a high pass area. Memel has a large wetlands – Seekoeivlei. We obtained the key to the gate at the Tourist Information Centre and spent the day driving the wetlands. We enjoyed 2 meals and beer at the local hotel. The food was excellent and the ambiance of the old hotel was most pleasant.


We left the scenic clean air of the Memel area and Dumel Caravan Park and on to Village Lodge & Campground, Laskop Dam. We drove through the coal mining area with huge double trucks transporting coal to the electric plants. Not pleasant! Loskop Dam was not too productive for animals except for monkeys and one giraffe. It was very dry and the gravel road was dusty. We camped beside a stream and it was good for birding. The large new bathroom only had bathtubs for the women and 1 shower and bathtubs for the men. We found every camp had one or more bathtubs and a shower and they were very clean and spacious.


Dinonyane Lodge, Nylvlei was our next stop. Again we saw the effects of the drought. The marshland was dry and there was only a little water left in the low area. We decided to treat ourselves to a stay in a lodge near the Reserve. The area was disappointing for birds and animals – due to the dryness.

We stayed 2 nights and on to the mountainous area in the Magoebaskloof area. This is a wooded mountain area with winding road. The road was excellent but curvy. We stayed at the lovely Ruskamp Lodge and Campground. Our drive took us through a dusty very poor area near Petersburg and by the huge razor wired area of Zion City (a religious group). There was a campground advertised in Tzaneen at the main hotel, but it was closed and we were directed out of town (had trouble finding the right road) to Camp David (through a farmers field) at Olcalaco. Birding was good in the campground.


We had 2 more stops before we get to Kruger National Park. First do Adventura Blyde Canyon. What a canyon area!. Huge sculptured rocks, deep canyons, rivers and waterfalls. As we travelled we stopped at all the viewpoints and rest stops. Each one was beautiful, and each had vendors selling tablecloths, animal carvings and all tourist souvenirs. We did buy a few small things especially the tablecloths. Had difficulty finding a campground in Hazyview. Here we encountered our first security problem. After grocery shopping in Hazyview we were putting things away inside the vehicle when a long arm reached in and had ahold of Irene's purse. She screamed and he let go of it. The security women were right there dealing with the young men. The women carry long hardwood sticks which they use to enforce the law.

Our last week is spent driving the length of Kruger National Park, which afforded many animal sightings. The weather started out very hot in the south 40'C every day but became more pleasant as we drove north. It was extremely dry and the water holes were starting to dry up. One large campground (Shingwedze) was on the verge of closing as the wells had run dry. We stayed at a different site every night, and in one case took a cabin. We had reserved and paid for all the campsites before leaving home via the Internet. We had heard of people not being able to get into Kruger as they were completely booked and we did not wish that to happen as this is a very special place. The camps we went to were Crocodile Bridge, Lower Sabie, Satara, Letaba, Shingwidzi and Punda Maria. All the campsites here were without any grass, dusty and poorly maintained. The bathrooms were very clean and well kept. We saw “the big 5” elephant, rhino, giraffe, hippo and lion. Our view of the lions was not great, but we did see them. The main road was excellent, but some of the side gravel roads were very rough.

From Punda Maria camp in the north we left for Ben Lavin Nature Reserve. The route took us by a “Homeland” settlement that went on for miles and miles. Our next day was a long drive to Mar-Leo Camp, Roodeplaat Dam. A pretty spot beside a lake, but the camp buildings were mediocre. We were just north of Johannesburg so our final days drive was not long. After dealing with all the traffic on the outskirts of the city and returning the vehicle we settled into the Klip-Els B & B for our last night in South Africa.



It had been a good trip, we saw lots of everything. We saw 340 species of birds and almost all of these were first time sightings. This was all quite exciting – the first was just as beautiful as the last one we saw. The roads and infrastructure of South Africa is excellent, and this includes the condition of the roads and the sign-age. We did buy bottled water for drinking but the water systems were good where ever we went. We are glad we made this trip before there are drastic changes in this country. There still is unrest and the insecurity about the future for the Afrikaners.

Our return flight was about 17 hours with a stop in Cape Verde for refuelling and then a plane change in Atlanta. Our advise is never do this – being in transit and having to land in the USA you are required to clear Customs as if you were staying and then go through security again to board your flight to Canada. You are asked what is the reason for your visit and it is only to catch the flight to Toronto. It is a long gruelling process and we have vowed NEVER to transit through the USA again.